PRINT: Rock Climbing in Owl Rock, Southeast Utah

Owl Rock

Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Owl rock is a one pitch 100' roadside spire that offers one of the easiest summit spires in the desert. Not that it's easy, but it's one of the easy ones. Hint. The rock looks like mud but really feels solid as you go up, and takes gear and slings well. It's the most popular route in Arches (for obvious reasons), and worth a climb if you're starting out in the desert. There is a scenic parking area 200' from the start of the climb to park in.

Getting There

Go 9.3 miles from the Arches visitor center (entry fee $30 for a week) and turn right (E) on the Windows turnoff. Drive 1.1 miles and turn left into the Garden of Eden parking area. Owl is the spire ESE of the parking area. Approach on established trails and avoid cryptobiotic soils in the area. Gain the base of the route from the west ramp, not up the steps on the north side of the ramp (crumbly sandy with groundfall potential around 20').

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 773 ● West Crack Trad

● West Crack

773

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Owl Rock during the eclipse Oct. 14 2023

A view from the top of Owl Rock after a cold winter ascent.

Robyn beating the heat on an early morning ascent of Owl Rock in Arches National Park - Utah

Owl Rock from the Bullwinkle tower instagram.com/radam_gnawrot

Never let me go @Jack Neus

Me putting in a piece before the crux.

Owl Rock

Owl action

owl rock

Yet another picture of Owl Rock. Photo; Todd Gordon Collection.

Green line shows line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Large hexes work better than cams as the crack flares open in the back. Feb 15, 2002

Anonymous Coward

One of the better 5.8 routes I've done. Aside from the gapping tourist less than 100ft away. The climbing is sustained throughout the entire route, with the crux up high. I found the pro to be solid, but bring long slings for rope drag. May 17, 2002

Anonymous Coward

As I remember, actually summitting this tower required that one downclimb to the chains, as there is no summit rap anchor. Aug 16, 2004

Blitzo

A cool little spire! Sep 12, 2006

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY

On February 15 we beefed up the newer anchor on Owl Rock, adding a 1/2 SS bolt to the in-place angle and large ring bolt (probably placed by local guides). This was equalized with brown-(camo)-heavy-gauge chain, and the chain one might use for tying up a dog was removed.

Over the years, the older anchor that once existed on the summit had created rope grooves. The newer anchor, which was in place prior to
us beefing it up, is in an improved anchor position and should mitigate those grooves and thus help preserve climbing access.

An angle-piton exists between the summit and the anchor to protect leaders in the 8 feet of 5.3 to the summit. You have to also down-lead this portion. This angle can be clipped and unclipped from the same ledge you clip the anchor from. Feb 19, 2007

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO

Great climb! My first desert tower lead. Awkward balance and movement but really not very hard. Jul 16, 2011

Ben Hobgood
Conifer, CO

I found this to be very fun with a great stemming move with great exposure and very solid gear placements. A lot of onlookers taking pics but it is off the trail enough that no one is standing around bothering you. Jun 21, 2017

Jskierpx
Truckee, CA

Adding to what Sam Lightner stated above, there now appears to be 2 angle pitons in the top 15 feet to lead (and down lead) back to the rap anchors safely. Nov 1, 2017

Brian Cook
Park City, UT

I second the large hex recommendation. They felt BOMBER for someone just learning to use jams on lead.
You can get away without them (and most of the jams for that matter) but some of the flaring cam placements are less than warm and fuzzy. Nov 5, 2018