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5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 3.1 from 21 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Randy Vogel, Charles Cole & Marjorie Shovlin, October 1983 |
Page Views: | 3,906 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Randy on Nov 25, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This fun face route is on excellent rock near the left side of the right end of the East Face of Little Hunk. It lies just left of Electric Blue (5.11c).
Begin off a boulder and head up and right on face, then straight up past 2 bolts to a small horizontal break (gear possible here). Finish up and left reaching a large ledge (gear anchor) -or- move up and right to the 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor shared with Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux.
This route is a bit run out, but nothing that a calm head won't solve.
Protection
.75 to 3 inches, 2 bolts (1/2 inch SS)
After the second bolt there's a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 Camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt belay/rappel anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the original route, and you'll need to set up a gear anchor (no bolts), then scramble off right and descend slabs (class 3) on the north side of the formation.
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