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Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
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ZZZZZ Direct Start T 

ZZZZZ Direct Start 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,505
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Nov 4, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: original start on left; direct start on right

A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>


This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.

This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).

Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.


4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.

Photos of ZZZZZ Direct Start Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sara Matisse on the FA
Sara Matisse on the FA

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Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Didn't know that this wasn't the right start for ZZZZZ. Nice moves on nice rock and still get the crux of ZZZZZ. The face after the first natural pro was a little spicy. The crux was well protected at the third bolt.
By Gabriella Venus 1
Jan 14, 2017

Great route. It could use a new third and fourth bolt although you can sorta see what your getting yourself into when looking up at the plaque (nov88) attached to the third bolt. The fourth bolt is in even worse shape - rusted with a loose hanger. If these bolts were Replaced the route would not feel much scarier than your average j-tree face climb.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 15, 2017

Thanks Gabriella. I've put replacing bolts 3 and 4 on my to do list.

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