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Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alexander's Chimney T 
Chasm Lake Outlet  
Columbine Falls T 
Crazy Train T 
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T 
Dovetail Right 
Dreamweaver T 
Duncan Did it First T 
Eighth Route, The T 
Field's Chimney T 
Flying Dutchman, The T 
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T 
Joe's Solo  
Kiener's Route T 
Lamb's Slide T 
Left of Columbine Falls T 
Martha T 
North Chimney T 
North Face / Cables Route T 
Notch Couloir, The T 
Schobinger's Cracks T 
Ship's Prow Ice T 
Smear of Fear T 
South Face / Lady Washington T 
Zumie's Chimney T 
Unsorted Routes:

Zumie's Chimney 

WI3 M3

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original: WI3 M3 [details]
FA: Duncan Ferguson, Thomas Mackey
Season: Fall/ Early Winter
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: Dylan Cousins on Dec 14, 2014

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Dylan on the first pitch.

Description 

From what I can decipher in the Gillett guidebook, this is the long, left-trending corner/ chimney that begins about 150 yards right of the Cables route. This forms a really nice ice hose in wet years. In 2014, it looked great in October and still climbed well by December. In the fall of 2011, the ice did not form nearly as well and we backed off this route that December.

Location 

This is 150 yards climber's right of the cables. It ascends the obvious, left-trending corner/ chimney.

Protection 

A few screws and a light rack - the rock pro is sparse in this water polished groove.


Photos of Zumie's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions, December 2011.
BETA PHOTO: Conditions, December 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: Conditions, December 2011.
BETA PHOTO: Conditions, December 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: The left-angling corner/chimney about 150 yards ri...
The left-angling corner/chimney about 150 yards ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zumie's Chimney, December 2014.
Zumie's Chimney, December 2014.

Comments on Zumie's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Awerbuch
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 21, 2014
rating: WI2 M2

What a great line. To add a little more about pro: I agree that it is sparse in spots. I used many tiny to medium nuts, mostly alloy offsets and RPs. I try to use cams in the alpine, because they are faster for the leader and for the second, but I couldn't place many here. I found a crack that took a few medium-sized cams for a good belay after most of a rope-length. A spectre may also come in handy.

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