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Szívek Fala
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Zsuzsa 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Pal Pocsi on Jun 13, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Zsuzsa at Bajót. Route follows the rope, except ...

Description 

Tough climbing with a quick crux right at the first bolt. Start of the route is no problem and you can sling the small tree right by the little plaque. It's pretty easy to reach the first bolt but then the crux is getting above it.

The wall is pretty vertical at this point and the hand holds are less than cooperative. You'll need to trust a small foot hold to get a little higher. This will allow you to reach a pretty good sidepull with the right hand.

The rest of the climb isn't trivial either... in fact, the difficulty is very steady the whole way. Next section has a cool vertical crack with similar feel to Letargia's best parts. Then there is one more little challenging bit to top out on a slight overhang.

You now have a choice between the easy scrable to the anchors or lead the end of the route called Sensor (VI) or the slightly easier Protector (VI-). This finish feels scary because of it's overhanging nature.

Awesome route, with or without the additional climbing at top.

Location 

Zsuzsa is located roughly in the center of Szívek Fala. Look for the small tree and the little plaque.

Protection 

Bolts and pins to the anchors at the top. A sling for the tree is handy but not absolutely necessary.


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