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Beaver Wall
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Chains in the Grove [Var] S 
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Dead By 30 S 
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Golden Beaver T 
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Hebe to CWAV [Var] S 
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Plate, The S 
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Rage to Live S 
Right Tissue S 
Sparky Vision S 
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Vistacruiser T 
Zschiesche's Problem S 

Zschiesche's Problem 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Skinner & Craig Smith, 1987
Season: Afternoon shade
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Oct 14, 2014

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Description 

Zschiesche's Problem shares a start with Rage to Live, but continues straight up through the black streak where Rage traverses left. A well-defined one move crux is encountered after the third bolt; height, reach and sharp hold tolerance are huge assets here (at 5' 11" tall with a +3 ape index, I was at full extension). From an obvious clipping jug at the fourth bolt, the climbing eases considerably through the ripples to the base of a weird wide crack. A big runout through this feature guards the chains. The climbing is easy, though the crack can be damp and mossy as it is fully in the black water streak. There is a possibility for a cam placement to make this section safer if you choose to do so.

Location 

Start as for Rage to Live in the black streak towards the middle of the wall (left of Lessons in Yorkshire) but shoot straight up instead of traversing left at the second bolt.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. Optional small hand size cam (probably 1 or .75 Camalot) to reduce the runout at the top if you so choose.


Comments on Zschiesche's Problem Add Comment
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By Craig Smith
Apr 11, 2016

Just for the record I did the first ascent with Todd. On the day we were trying it in turn and he got it on one of his goes. As a result I seconded it!
Best wishes,
Craig Smith
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 11, 2016

Updated the FA info. Thanks.