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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Great line that goes from tips to fingers to off fingers to stacks to thin hands, through a thin hands roof, to thin hands / hands (maybe a lieback past a wide pod) and up to the chains.
The crux is before the #1s roof. Those initial corners are slippery and the crux. The roof is tricky too and thin hands.
Right side of Pink Flamingo wall. Almost straight above the parking lot (little left of straight above when looking from the car). Behind a tree in a dihedral. Right of Pink Flamingo and all that a couple hundred yards.
Green alien and two yellow aliens for the start (maybe a blue too). Decent amount of .5 and .75 camalot size for the meat of the route. #1s for the roof. #1, #2, #3 above the roof. Could place a big piece too but why carry it when you can push through (and maybe even whimper)!
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 23, 2009
The book calls it 5.11. I thought it was hard for 11 but it was super slippery for us... silt or something covers the right side wall so the feet aren't great. Change corners and push into .75s in an opposite facing position and charge for the roof. If you get that far clean you can probably will yourself to the top for the send.
From: Sedona, AZ
Sep 30, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
I agree about the grade/slippery nature of the climb. Awesome route, but so sustained and difficult I thought it should go at 11+ to keep it more like other Creek 5.11s. SWEET & difficult line