|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 30'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c X [details]|
|Submitted By:||J. Thompson on Apr 28, 2005|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Zoroaster||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Aug 27, 2014
|Probably some gear way back in the chimney--gonna check it out.|
From: Santa Monica, CA
Nov 11, 2014
|.... And we haven't heard back from climbing this X-route. uhoh.|
By Mark P Thomas
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
A #1 BD C4 protects this climb fine and it is a great introduction to leading chimneys for the novice chimney leader.
It is only 5.8 X if you climb straight up from the outside and ignore the rest of the chimney.
If you climb the chimney as you would any chimney on a trad climb, you can make it ~5.5 PG. Just walk inside about 10-15' to where a gigantic piece of the formation has fractured and tipped over, sealing the back of the chimney. This part is about cl. 4-5 chimneying on great washboard foot holds if you go right-side in. Place the bomber red cam in the leaning block and then stem & change sides to left-side in as you tunnel in to an even deeper slot formed by the backside of the leaning block. There is no pro in here, but there is nowhere to fall. It is now about 5.5 chimneying ('froggy' technique) to a chill topout on the formation (stay left, away from the wider chimney, for security).
Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of her first chimney leads. She is in the second chimney on the technical crux.
Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Bigwank.
Be careful that the rope drags over a death block near the top. It is safe enough if the belayer stays far out to keep the rope angle better to avoid dragging over the rock. For the follower, the rope can be flipped into the second chimney, or at least if they climb deeper inside, exposure is limited.
By David Bruneau
From: St. John
Jul 8, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
|Climbing near the outside is the good practice for chimney technique, where there aren't as many features. It is very easy to control your descent down this chimney by just pushing on the sides - I don't really see how you could manage to free fall to the bottom unless you suddenly went unconscious.|