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Turk's Head
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Zor the Mantle T,TR 

Zor the Mantle 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??????
Season: All year.Sun in Winter.Best mid Spring/Fall.
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Nov 12, 2012

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Smiling looking down... OK... that pesky mantle mo...


This climb is a variation of the 4th pitch of the Turk's Head Ridge route on the north side of that particular buttress. The climb takles a very nice crack on this steep exposure up into a niche then out of the niche exiting right. There is a unique lie back section above where the crack is a bit too small for the average sized hand to jam that takes you up to where the crack ends and the climber is forced to climb left up onto a ledge via a very brutish mantle move (no feet). Above the ledge the difficulty eases way off but the fun factor stays high with neat moves up steep smooth slab but good holds on the rib over and left. Great route I think!


4th pitch variation of the route "Turk's Head Ridge" on the north exposure of this buttress. The buttress bottom is about level with the base of the formation "Chair Buttress" over to the left.


Take extra cams in the size of BD Camelots .75 to 2 to sew this up.... especially the BD Red. There is a fixed piton at 1/2 height that looks OK (has a slight downward angle but it's a big angle piton) and a fixed cam just above that looks still OK. The mantle move is protected with the smallest TCU or 4Cam (OO) or Zero in the horizontal at the back of the ledge.. you can get in a couple and both deep. It's quite the exercise to hold on and place em though...

Photos of Zor the Mantle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Zor the Mantle" crack. 4th pitch variat...
"Zor the Mantle" crack. 4th pitch variat...

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By Tony Brengosz
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed this in a light rain last spring, which made the liebacks above the pin pretty exciting. If this weren't stranded in the middle of the west bluff, I think it would be a classic.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Nov 13, 2012

I am curious about the story behind the stuck cam? It doesn't appear to have the usual hammered look of repeated attempts to retrieve it. Also a testament to the isolated location of this route. Many climbers I talk to that frequent DL alot say they have never done "Turk's Head Ridge". That light rain had to make that mantle move fairly interesting too!
By Tony Brengosz
Nov 14, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

That ledge offers no relief until you're standing on it!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2013

Good route. I agree with Tony if it wasn't so hidden it would be more classic. Sustained hard climbing from start to finish. Appropriately named. Felt about the same as Breakfast of Champions in terms of difficulty , but I think 9+ is a sandbag.
By Adam J. Clark
From: Mill Creek, WA
Jul 24, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Did the ridge yesterday and quite a few climbs on the east bluff, this climb and upper diagonal were by far my favorites.

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