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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.
Page Views: 3,078
Submitted By: Eric8 on Nov 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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P1 of Zoom.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Starts with a hard, bolt-protected mantel(10d), then follows two more bolts up easier climbing. Go slightly right over the small roof with a few finger jams. Then follow the knob climbing (10b) with natural gear for pro. A slight runout to an overlap near the top, but you can place a finger-sized nut immediately after. At the overlap, look for sidepulls on the left.

It is possible to skip the bottom mantel by climbing up to the right (~10a), then stepping onto the mantel ledge. Be careful of the landing though if you fail.


left of the tunnel, a stump makes a good belay rest


Bolts at the start, gear to number 2 camalot to finish.

For the 10b climbing on knobs, bring small wires.

Photos of Zoom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the crux knobby section of Zoom. Find...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the crux knobby section of Zoom. Find...

Comments on Zoom Add Comment
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By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I agree this is a really good pitch (the route actually stretches for three pitches) and one of the better 5.10s at Index. The upper half of the climb has great movement and flow, especially through the knob section. A little more detail might be nice, though. For instance, bring along RPs/HBs or some other kind of micronut, because they're mandatory to protect the upper half of the climb, which mostly uses an incipient seam for pro. There's also a moderate runout to end the route. Right in the middle of the seam is God's Most Perfect Nut Placement (medium wired) to make things chill.
By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

FA: Jon Nelson, Steve Strong, Tom Michael.

Fairly recently, rockfall deposited a headstone-sized block squarely at the belay stance; another block the size of a large washing machine landed about 100 feet out from the wall. Heads up!
By Douglas T
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you climb one 5.10d at Index, make it this one. Slow Children may be more sustained, but this one makes you feel more ALIVE.

Here's Lukic pulling Zoom. The first part of the video is good beta for the very cryptic first moves. The later part is good for inspiration.

By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Aug 19, 2014

While at the base and preparing to climb, an unexplained rock came sailing from above. Also noticed very recent rockfall at the base of morning star (to the left of this climb). Yesterday a friend told me he heard from a local that Orc tower above is deteriorating and may be coming down soon, have not verified, but seems reasonable since rockfall occurred recently when I was there and you can see evidence of very fresh rockfall near-by. Something to consider while in the area.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Aug 20, 2014

Thanks for the heads-up Jessica.

This apparent increase in the shedding of rocks is troublesome. I hope it stops before someone gets hurt.

I never did feel good being under Orc Tower.
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 12, 2016

Gear beta:
Save a finger-tips sized cam for the top.
A nut might go well in the face.


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