REI Community
Narrows - Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C3PO 
Jawa T 
Rancor, The T 
Wicket S 
Womp Rat 
Zippo's Frozen Booger T 

Zippo's Frozen Booger 

WI5

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 105'
Original: WI5 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 261
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Dec 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ian McEleney topping out Zippo's Frozen Booger...

Description 

Though there's often a bit of ice here and there this route rarely forms enough to climb. It had been toproped by some big names before the first lead and that's probably the way most climbers will enjoy this route. The route was named by the first ascensionist after a friend who died on Mount Shasta.

When it is "in" it's still quite thin and delicate in places and requires thoughtful climbing if you want to leave ice for anyone else.

Location 

This is the farthest left pure ice route on this side of the narrows. It's to the right of a small tree growing out of the cliff, and left of a big-hands crack that runs to the top.

Protection 

If you're leading, short screws and maybe thin pins. At the top are some old rusty bolts that are often covered up. A better option is a finger-to-hand sized crack in good rock a few feet higher.

To toprope, scramble up low 5th class at the right end of the cliff to access the big ledge above the route. You'll need a 70m rope to toprope or lower off from your lead.


Photos of Zippo's Frozen Booger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zippo's almost never forms fat enough to reaso...
Zippo's almost never forms fat enough to reaso...
Rock Climbing Photo: Zippo's in really fat conditions after a serie...
Zippo's in really fat conditions after a serie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Lydiard leading Zippo's Frozen Booger in ...
Luke Lydiard leading Zippo's Frozen Booger in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Traxler grabbing a lap in a fat year.
Ben Traxler grabbing a lap in a fat year.

Comments on Zippo's Frozen Booger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 3, 2015

I spoke to several long-time local ice climbers and nobody could recall the name of the first ascensionist. If anyone knows please inform me and I'll update the page.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About