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Zion Train 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Pollock, Steve Grigel, Adam Huxley, May 2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,443
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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The upper section of Zion Train. Climber: Adam H...

Description 

A thrilling position and good moves on the upper pitch make this one a highlight of the area.

P1: 5.7, 130 feet. Start as for The Burning Bush, and climb past the anchors (optional belay here) to continue over the broken, ledgy terrain (5.2-5.3) of the Promised Land Ledge up into a spacious alcove with a mossy floor (11 bolts + 2-bolt anchor).

P2: 5.10a/b, 85 feet. Climb out of the alcove toward the roofs above (5.8), aiming for a bright yellow lichen streak. Dodge the first roof on its left side, and use stems and liebacks to work over the larger roof above (5.10a, crux). On the slab above, follow the bolts straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Your view from here is commanding (10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor).

Two 60-meter ropes tied together will usually juuuust reach the ground from the top anchor (watch your ends), or you can rappel back into the alcove and do one or two more rappels from there to the ground.

There is a rusty, bent piton just above the upper anchor --— evidence of exploration during an earlier era.

Location 

Start as for The Burning Bush.

Protection 

P1 - 11 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.
P2 - 10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Zion Train Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Huxley on Zion Train.  Photo: Steve Grigel.
Adam Huxley on Zion Train. Photo: Steve Grigel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zion Train upper pitch, crux section.
BETA PHOTO: Zion Train upper pitch, crux section.
Rock Climbing Photo: The piton at the top of Zion Train.  It's a Stubai...
The piton at the top of Zion Train. It's a Stubai...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross on the easy section" between "The B...
Ross on the easy section" between "The B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the beginning.
Near the beginning.
Rock Climbing Photo: Most of the 10a second, main pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Most of the 10a second, main pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Huxley beginning the final slab on Zion Train...
Adam Huxley beginning the final slab on Zion Train...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Huxley starts up pitch 2 of Zion Train; Josh ...
Adam Huxley starts up pitch 2 of Zion Train; Josh ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Huxley about to start the crux sequence on Zi...
Adam Huxley about to start the crux sequence on Zi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Grigel pulling over the lip.
Steve Grigel pulling over the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Grigel starts the crux sequence.
Steve Grigel starts the crux sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Grigel starts pitch two.
Steve Grigel starts pitch two.

Comments on Zion Train Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Apr 15, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a fun climb. The crux is short, but it takes some thought to climb it. The upper slab could use some moss/ lichen scrubbing if anyone ever has a brush with them as they climb.
By Mike Morin
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 30, 2015

Climbed this yesterday, I would suggest patching the hole and not replacing the bolt. I'm not certain the terrain it's in is even 5.5. Just my opinion.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Aug 6, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Contrived and ledgy.
By Wes F
From: DENVER, COLORADO
Apr 25, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

At the lip of the overhang, 2nd pitch (green lichen covered rock) keep a lookout for loose rock. There is a large patch of fractured rock that shifted while I was cranking on it. The gully below funnels towards the belay, so be mindful.
By Daniel Joder
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2017

If you happen to warm up on Don't Rock My Boat (due to large party occupying P1s of the two 5.7s to the left, as was our case), you can also take a run up P2 of Zion Train from the top of P1 of DRMB.
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Jun 24, 2017

6/24/2107 -- anchors were checked and tightened. All OK.

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