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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: C. Salaun, 1978
Page Views: 4,626
Submitted By: Scott Thompson on Aug 4, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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The final moves at sunset.

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This route is on the Left Book. Approach as for White Whale, Hiatus (there's a pretty recognizable trail leading around the west end of the Book). Trail takes you to the base of main slab where these routes begin. Zingando begins ~75 yds up and to the left of the main slab. Scramble along boulders and ground level slabs adjacent to main slab. Stop when you are even with the last two large trees on either side of you; here there's a ancient, large log lying across the slab, rack up here. Belay at the end of the log at a nice seat, just below a deep slot in the wall above.

P1-make junky, somewhat dirty moves to start, up past two flakes, and reach for jugs on top of the last flake, right by a small tree. Continue up left-arching flake to roof, go left a few feet, over roof and up a crack to tree belay on the right.

P2-Traverse on the large flake to the left, up a short crack, then take handcrack that angles off to the right; follow to the large ledge above. this last pitch is superb--great handcrack with gear anywhere you need it (although it is quite easy)!

This is a good alternative for a weekend when WW/Hiatus/The Dog all have parties on them (as we found). I feel it's even a good destination climb for beginning Lumpy climbers. Heck, my partner and I enjoyed it a lot more than Batman and Robin; more continuous, although not as long and not a summit route. Nonetheless, a good route.


SR; #4 Friend useful in a couple of places, but not necessary. Hexes.

Photos of Zingando Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the last moves of Zingando.
Finishing the last moves of Zingando.
Rock Climbing Photo: Guidebooks suggest starting Zingando at green mark...
BETA PHOTO: Guidebooks suggest starting Zingando at green mark...

Comments on Zingando Add Comment
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By Jim McGuire
Oct 27, 2003

It is also possible to start farther up and to the left and then traverse back in to the right and avoid the junky start. Although easier, this is just as good as the other Left Book Slab routes.
By craggin carl
Aug 2, 2005

Only two stars for me, It is not as cool as other routes on this formation, but a good option if there are crowds here. Simuled the whole route in one pitch. 14 minutes on route.
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 2, 2006

The first time I tried to climb Zingando, I couldn't find it and ended up doing a variation of Cottontail instead. The second time I tried it, I ended up with an experience similar to Dave's. I believe that lichenous roof is actually the right roof, but perhaps it looks like it doesn't get a lot of traffic because a lot of people end up doing what Jim did, which is what I did the third time I climbed the route.

A lot of people I've talked to never even end up finding the route at all, I think mainly because everything's so low angle that, when standing at the base, looks nothing like the topo or photo in the guidebooks. My advice for finding the route: Head across to the opposite side of the gully and get as high up as possible until the beautiful 2nd pitch crack becomes obvious.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 1, 2007

Dave and Curt,

When I arrived below Zingando in 7/95, other climbs were all taken. I did the same or at least very similar variation you guys describe. Anyway, local CMS guides told me it was a 1st ascent? I called it "5.5 my ass!", because that's what I yelled down to my party of four friends standing below when I almost came off at a particularly wet, lichen-filled spot in the grungy crack. When I slipped on the wet lichen, the small cam I'd placed just above my waist pulled, and I was a little shook up. But I sure like your name for the route better Dave. Now that I think about it, I must have gone higher than you before traversing over to the Zingando belay indicated on the topo. I ran out of large nuts before making the traverse and in order to find a slot that would take a good piece of pro, my second and I simul-climbed for at least 20 feet or more. Then I finally found a placement for a #2 Camalot and belayed him up. At that point, I was on a long, low-angle cushy stance below a very large crack. After a long, unprotected traverse over to the roof on Zingando I set a bomber belay with 2 Friends and 3 large nuts in cracks under the roof. I was happy just to be there with some pro in that I didn't think about going up above the roof to belay. Second pitch above the roof as described by others is the best, laid-back hand crack I've ever climbed and it takes anything on your rack. Unfortunately, weather moved in before we could do White Whale.
By Sarge
Nov 1, 2008

The upper pitch is great, but the route is best done in simul-climb.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

FWIW, I didn't think the starting moves were all that dirty. The start actually may've been my favorite part of the pitch. After that, the pitch I suppose pulling the roof might be a little exciting for someone who is just beginning to get into trad. All in all, it was just ok.

The second pitch, though, was a fun cruiser crack. And, like the description says, that thing would easily eat an entire rack of pro.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2012

My partner & I had a bit of a route-finding misadventure here. While the description of how to find the start is excellent, the description of P1 isn't quite so clear. She made "junky, somewhat dirty moves" straight up the slab to a lower roof that didn't go at 5.5. I took the lead, then wandered all over hell & back looking for the right-angling crack mentioned in P2. Turns out I had been below the correct roof, but the left-angling crack above it confused me. In any case, GO RIGHT AND UP THROUGH THE CORNER at the start of P1 unless you have a thing for wandering around on 5.2 slabs with a ton of rope drag.
Rock Climbing Photo: FA of "Oops" (5.DUMB).
FA of "Oops" (5.DUMB).
By Rocky_Mtn_High
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Don't be fooled: My partner and I got a late start on White Whale on a perfect day (climbers were waiting for that route all day!). After we got back down, we had enough time for another couple of pitches, so we figured Zingando, with a rating well below that of White Whale, would be a snap. In fact, IMO it is just about as challenging as White Whale, featuring a strenuous, bouldery start and a challenging roof for the grade (pretty sure I was on route properly). For a bit more spice on P2 with some really fun face climbing, head straight up the face from the P1 belay at the tree (rather than following the crack left).
By Theo Barker
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 22, 2013

I spent about an hour yesterday trying to find the right combination of moves that would make the start (as noted by Baumer's photo) less than 5.8. There was no way my partner was going to be able to make the moves, so I finally gave up. We walked down and did White Whale, which doesn't have any moves as difficult as getting to the very short tree at the beginning of the P1 crack.
By Justin Peacock
From: Denver/Los Angeles
Jun 26, 2016

Not sure what to say. I really think I was spot on with my route finding, and this thing was hard. Definitely harder than White Whale next door.

The start is sporty and steep. The holds are all there and gear is good, but it's thoughtful and strenuous for a 5.7 leader, but the 2nd roof on the first pitch? You really have to move left to turn it, and it's strenuous, above marginal gear. Unless I missed something majorly obvious to the rest of the world.

2nd pitch is superb.

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