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Ziggy's Overhang S,TR 

Ziggy's Overhang 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 12, 2014

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Description 

The historic "original" difficulty grade in the old West Point guide was 5.7+
The historic route description was:
Stay to the right of the NOSE bolts and go straight up. Or go up to window and then diagonal left over center of 12” overhang clipping 2nd bolt out to the left. Over hang, up face diagonal right up a series of left facing corners to big dead oak. Station to left of dead oak.
V2: Rosie’s Direct Finish. Go straight up face and stay to the left of the Diagonal finish on the inside corner facing left up the dead oak.
V1: From the window go straight up or cut over to join Pillow Queen. Ziggy climbed the only rock not covered by PI."

The Direct Finish seems like 5.10a/b.

Could set up Top-Rope for at least the lower two-thirds of Ziggys, and for V2, by making a short rappel from "Nose" anchor down to the anchor bolts. Or with a directional from "Nose" anchor bolts. Unfortunately in the upper section, avoiding Rosie's Direct Finish by going right would subject a falling climber to a substantial sideways swing, so better to do that with protection placed by a someone climbing on lead - (or just lower off before reaching it).

Location 

route name at bottom painted in white as of 2014
RRT# 113
. (between "Nose" and "Pillow Queen")

Protection 

Bolts -- Years ago there were 9 bolts, but I have not checked to see of that count is still accurate.


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By kenr
Nov 12, 2014

Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).

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