REI Community
Poison Ivy Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"49" S 
Cadet Buster S,TR 
Coach's Route S 
Done Broke the Code S,TR 
Dr Death S,TR 
Gunkish S,TR 
Happy Falling to You S,TR 
Hot Wire S,TR 
I’m Going ... Oh I’m Going Nowhere! S,TR 
Knob and Chain S 
Know The Code S 
Laws of Physics are strictly enforced, The S 
May the net Forces be with You S 
Message to Garcia S,TR 
Mitch's Route S,TR 
Nose S,TR 
Not So Fast S 
Opposition AKA Here it comes S,TR 
Perfect Face S 
Pink Butt Tights S 
Razzle Dazzle S 
Reach of Faith  S,TR 
Rock Hard S 
S&S Left S,TR 
S&S Right S,TR 
Sally S 
Savage Within aka Bloody Sister 1, The S,TR 
Side Pull Plus S 
Spank-A-Saurus S,TR 
Triple Banger Overhanger S,TR 
Window on the Hudson S,TR 
Ziggy's Overhang S,TR 

Ziggy's Overhang 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


The historic "original" difficulty grade in the old West Point guide was 5.7+
The historic route description was:
Stay to the right of the NOSE bolts and go straight up. Or go up to window and then diagonal left over center of 12” overhang clipping 2nd bolt out to the left. Over hang, up face diagonal right up a series of left facing corners to big dead oak. Station to left of dead oak.
V2: Rosie’s Direct Finish. Go straight up face and stay to the left of the Diagonal finish on the inside corner facing left up the dead oak.
V1: From the window go straight up or cut over to join Pillow Queen. Ziggy climbed the only rock not covered by PI."

The Direct Finish seems like 5.10a/b.

Could set up Top-Rope for at least the lower two-thirds of Ziggys, and for V2, by making a short rappel from "Nose" anchor down to the anchor bolts. Or with a directional from "Nose" anchor bolts. Unfortunately in the upper section, avoiding Rosie's Direct Finish by going right would subject a falling climber to a substantial sideways swing, so better to do that with protection placed by a someone climbing on lead - (or just lower off before reaching it).


route name at bottom painted in white as of 2014
RRT# 113
. (between "Nose" and "Pillow Queen")


Bolts -- Years ago there were 9 bolts, but I have not checked to see of that count is still accurate.

Comments on Ziggy's Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By kenr
Nov 12, 2014

Karl and I top-roped most of Ziggys with a directional from the Nose anchor bolts. Suatained interesting climbing on the lower two-thirds. The direct finish (V2) was way harder (interesting slab moves).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About