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Ziggy Stardust T,S 

Ziggy Stardust 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: 1982
Season: South face (too hot during the Sumer)
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: Maribetula on Jun 18, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Ziggy Stardust 5.10b

Description 

The crux is at the very beginning. The guidebook says a "violent move" and I totally agree. After that, it follows some cracks till a steep slab climbing that looks more difficult than what it actually is. Scary if you don´t like slab climbing (if you don´t like old school slab climbing just don´t go to El Yelmo).

Location 

Starts on the right side of the flake called "el gendarme" (well bolted) and goes straight more or less until the summit of el gendarme. To finish, it follows the last pitch of the "Walkiria" route. Get down to the West; there is a very easy route that you can downclimb (5.3), called La Valentina. Do not take off the shoes, though.

Protection 

Bolted but some gear is needed as well (friends).


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By Maribetula
Jun 18, 2012

I climbed all the way to the top of the flake (70 m rope was ok) but it´s better to do it at least in 2 pitches, as the rope was pulling too much.

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