|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mark Wilford, 1978|
|Submitted By:||Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001|
|Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Ziggie's Day Out||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 24, 2001
|One of the coolest pitches I've seen on Lumpy. RPs are fun!|
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 23, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In the Gillett guide this is the only route on Checkerboard with three stars. I thought Ziggie's was good, but think Checkerboard Crack and Rainy Day Woman are better and more interesting.
The crux of Ziggie's is short and top roped. The crux for me was not the moves but rather stopping in the middle of the moves to place 2 brass nuts and then downclimbing. After getting the good holds above the bulge you can place another brass nut to protect the final moves over the bulge. A very good #2 Friend/0.75 Camalot helps you relax at the stance above the crux. Insecure moves with decent gear lead to the top of the crack. Marginal tiny brass protect the last few moves. I moved left about 6 feet onto the steep slab to a flake. Finishing up the no-pro crack looked dirty and hard, and climbing right of the crack looked impossible. Is moving left correct ?
The initial traverese right on the undercling flakes is fun with with good gear and one hard move (9 or 9+).
Gear: 2+ sets of brass nuts. I used Astros and HB offsets. Single set bigger nuts to maybe 1/2". 2 sets micro cams to 1", singles to #2 Friend. Long runners.
Question: Has anyone climbed the first half of Checkerboard and the left angling crack to the crux of Ziggie's? That would be a straighter line. Seems like the climbs on this wall are all a bit illogical, but that's due to history. Using a "straightness" criteria, Checkerboard Crack should start on Rainy Day Woman. Ziggie's should start on Checkerboard Crack. Ziggie's Brother Hank should start on Ziggie's Day out.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 19, 2005
|The crux IS NOT 'toproped".|
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 8, 2007
|This pitch is pretty cool but I found it sandbagged at 10d.|
By quinndalina BT
From: Estes Park
Sep 23, 2010
|Climbed this today. Tricky pro is continuous as are the 5.10/border 5.11 moves. Great classic Lumpy pitch, if you are in to that sort of thing!!!! The route to the left is also a bit heady.|
By Clay McMasters
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 25, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|I always thought this was a great pitch & a nice trad challenge tossing in RPs along the way.|