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open book on the first pitch
Zig Zag is one of the area classics, and one of the longest climbs on Mt. Erie. As described here, pitch 2 and 3 can easily be linked. From the top of Zig Zag there are several options. One can scramble gullies to the top of Mt. Erie, climb Springboard, or rappel the route.
Climb the right facing corner onto a wide ledge at its top. From this ledge, hand traverse up a flake, eventually mantling onto its top. From here gain the slab and climb directly to the visible chains above.
This pitch offers several options. The original route heads up discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab to the right, ending at a belay on top of the snag buttress. Another option (better in my opinion) is to climb Undercover to the Springboard ledge on top of Zig Zag.
Head directly up from the Snag Buttress to a ledge below a roof. From this ledge, undercling and lieback around the right side of the roof. The pitch tops out on another large ledge with a horizontal tree and a bolted anchor.
This route starts to the left of the Snag Buttress in a prominent right facing corner.
This is approximately where the trail meets the cliff.
Gear to 2"
Looking south over Lake Campbell into Skagit Bay f...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the 2nd pitch. Follow the flakes up ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Zig Zag from the bas...
Feb 14, 2014
THE moderate classic on Erie! First and third pitches are some of the best easy trad pitches around. Middle slabby pitch is not hard but has limited pro. Agree that Undercover corner to left is better climbing and gets you to the same spot.
By J Sundstrom
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 18, 2015
Rapped from the P3 anchors to the anchors for Frogs in Space or Pinhead. With a 60, you will BARELY... actually, you won't make it without some sketchy down climbing. Unless you're heavy. With a 70 it wouldn't be a problem. FYI.
By Kemper Brightman
Jul 18, 2016
A good route with a great view and enjoyable climbing. Not to be missed. IMO the best way to do this route is in two pitches. First pitch heads up a corner then a hand traverse along a rail deposits you at a set of chains on the slab. There should be a set of chains to your right. From the left hand set of chains follow a couple bolts up to the crack feature, then head right and follow the feature all the way around to pull onto the ledge above. Two raps with a 70m from this ledge (with the fallen tree) gets you to the ground.
If you choose to do it the way its originally described, I found a couple #1 and #2 c3's were helpful to adequately protect the slab on the 2nd pitch.
By Scott Brown
Aug 11, 2016
Climbed this route two weeks ago and the flake(the "hand traverse" leading to the slab) at the top of the first pitch actually moved a bit. there looked to be a thin crack at the bottom.. it would be a fairly hefty rock to drop onto your belayer... although there is a bit of a variation just to the right that was much more solid.