REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cat from Outer Space S,TR 
Crack'n the Code T 
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 
Freedom Fighter S 
Frogs in Space T,S 
Gotta Keep Dancin T 
Jeopardy T 
Laus Deo S 
Lord of the Dance T 
Pinhead T,S 
Raindown S,TR 
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 
Springboard T 
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 
Touching the sky S 
Undercover T 
Zig Zag T 

Zig Zag 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Killien, Kloke
Season: Whenever it isn't wet
Page Views: 5,303
Submitted By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
First half (or 3/4th) of first pitch of Zig Zag

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>


Zig Zag is one of the area classics, and one of the longest climbs on Mt. Erie. As described here, pitch 2 and 3 can easily be linked. From the top of Zig Zag there are several options. One can scramble gullies to the top of Mt. Erie, climb Springboard, or rappel the route.
Pitch 1
Climb the right facing corner onto a wide ledge at its top. From this ledge, hand traverse up a flake, eventually mantling onto its top. From here gain the slab and climb directly to the visible chains above.
Pitch 2
This pitch offers several options. The original route heads up discontinuous cracks and ramps on the slab to the right, ending at a belay on top of the snag buttress. Another option (better in my opinion) is to climb Undercover to the Springboard ledge on top of Zig Zag.
Pitch 3
Head directly up from the Snag Buttress to a ledge below a roof. From this ledge, undercling and lieback around the right side of the roof. The pitch tops out on another large ledge with a horizontal tree and a bolted anchor.


This route starts to the left of the Snag Buttress in a prominent right facing corner.
This is approximately where the trail meets the cliff.


Gear to 2"

Photos of Zig Zag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of zig zag, and several other routes.
The start of zig zag, and several other routes.
Rock Climbing Photo: open book on the first pitch
open book on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the 2nd pitch. Follow the flakes up ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the 2nd pitch. Follow the flakes up ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south over Lake Campbell into Skagit Bay f...
Looking south over Lake Campbell into Skagit Bay f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the first pitch of Zig Zag from the bas...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of Zig Zag from the bas...

Comments on Zig Zag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Curtveld
Feb 14, 2014

THE moderate classic on Erie! First and third pitches are some of the best easy trad pitches around. Middle slabby pitch is not hard but has limited pro. Agree that Undercover corner to left is better climbing and gets you to the same spot.
By J Sundstrom
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 18, 2015

Rapped from the P3 anchors to the anchors for Frogs in Space or Pinhead. With a 60, you will BARELY... actually, you won't make it without some sketchy down climbing. Unless you're heavy. With a 70 it wouldn't be a problem. FYI.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
Jul 18, 2016

A good route with a great view and enjoyable climbing. Not to be missed. IMO the best way to do this route is in two pitches. First pitch heads up a corner then a hand traverse along a rail deposits you at a set of chains on the slab. There should be a set of chains to your right. From the left hand set of chains follow a couple bolts up to the crack feature, then head right and follow the feature all the way around to pull onto the ledge above. Two raps with a 70m from this ledge (with the fallen tree) gets you to the ground.

If you choose to do it the way its originally described, I found a couple #1 and #2 c3's were helpful to adequately protect the slab on the 2nd pitch.
By Scott Brown
From: Bellingham
Aug 11, 2016

Climbed this route two weeks ago and the flake(the "hand traverse" leading to the slab) at the top of the first pitch actually moved a bit. there looked to be a thin crack at the bottom.. it would be a fairly hefty rock to drop onto your belayer... although there is a bit of a variation just to the right that was much more solid.
By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Jan 3, 2017

There's a fixed cam about 8' up, that appeared some time in the last few months.
By Collin.CO
Jun 29, 2017

how did that cam even get there? the direction of force is up. Also, there is a nut on pitch 2 that looks easy enough to get out.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About