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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Carmichael, Sather Ekblad,'94
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Steep broken looking face that is better than it looks.


Third route left of the main crack system on the left end of the wall.



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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I didn't think there were any 5.10 moves on this, you could always move left to easier ground when it got harder. 15-20 ft runout from last bolt to anchors on 5.easy ground.
By Jimbo
Dec 11, 2011

Obviously you didn't follow the red taped holds.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

It's been a while since I hung around the gymnasium :-)

From: tucson, az
Dec 18, 2011

Fun warm up for other climbs. Added Mussy hooks to anchors
By Paul Zander
From: Bern, CH
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is one of those sport routes where you can kind of choose to climb 5.10 face moves or 5.8 moves further left in the weakness. I might come back with cams sometime and try it out as a 5.8 gear lead. That being said I had fun clipping the bolts and loved the exposed step left to the arete.

There is a runout on 5.5 terrain that could probably protect with just one cam in the 1-4" range.

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