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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Ian Green, 1994
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,018
Submitted By: Stewart M. Green on Apr 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Starting up Zendance. Photo by Kimberly.

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This excellent face route is up the face just right of "Village Idiot." Climb jugs up a steep slab past 2 bolts to a bolt at a left-diagonalling dike. Fun climbing leads up left along the dike past another bolt to a 2-bolt anchor shared with "Village Idiot." If you're a competent 5.7 climber, you will have no problem with the protection. If you're not, you may have a problem with mind control, since it is somewhat runout.


Small to medium wired Stoppers, possible green Alien, plus 4 bolts.

Photos of Zendance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplation during another long runout.  Photo b...
Contemplation during another long runout. Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approximate route of Zendance bolted line. Shares ...
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route of Zendance bolted line. Shares ...

Comments on Zendance Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 8, 2010
By Stewart M. Green
May 4, 2003

4 bolts in 100 feet. So runouts up to 25 feet. If you need more gear, then bring the Stoppers. 1 200-foot or 1 ropes to get off by rappel from the 2-bolt anchor.
By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Feb 3, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found that the few spots where gear could be placed were easy, and it seemed more reasonable to just continue upwards rather than fiddle around with stoppers, etc. That said, this is a great climb, and the bolts are where they are needed. I thought the moves to the first bolt were the crux, probably due to the prospect of a nasty fall into boulders below.
By Kris Carter
May 10, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree that the crux seemed to be down low & that is a nasty landing. Really fun route - definitely some room between the bolts & I did actually place 1 nut - but as I have said before I am a wuss. Next time I think we'll go ahead & climb the 2nd pitch to the top. Do Village Idiot once you get to the anchors - also a great climb, much easier on TR.
By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good solid climb with 2 small stopper placements..
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 27, 2005

Zendance is a good name as leader must "zen" out. The rating is good (7-) for how difficult the climb is. Just repeat that to yourself when you're leading. It's [facey] but has good feet. After the 2nd or 3rd bolt I placed a .5 cam in a small crack then I got a #2.5 cam in at, well the only place you'll see that one will go.The smaller nut placements mentioned are (I think) for the final stretch, which is run out but on secure footing.
By Andrew Ingraham
From: Conifer
Apr 3, 2006

Very cool route. You definitely want a 60 meter rope. I broke my ankle after being belayed off the end of a 150 foot rope here while lowering. I think I cut loose at the second or third bolt and took about a 30 to 40 foot slide into those nasty boulders (easily preventable). The climbing is great, I think I remember placing a nut between the first and second bolt or maybe the second and third but if you're a strong 5.7 leader you shouldn't need to.
By Jason Shatek
Jun 21, 2009

Cool route, 4 pieces in 100 ft was a bit light. Nothing like taking a 50 ft'er if you blow the clip. Used a green Alien in the seam, technical crux was right off the ground, mental crux right before the second bolt, cuz you're gonna deck, no question, if you miss that clip.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good route, but definitely run out between bolts. Crux is the start of the route -- at least mentally. Alternate (safer) start is to climb the crack about 15 ft right of Zendance then make a very short traverse left to join Zendance about 40 ft up. Good gear placements in the crack -- but need someone to follow and clean because the crack makes the route too long even for a 70m rope to reach the grnd. Zendance shares two cold shut anchors with Village Idiot. Even rapping straight down from the anchors, beware its a VERY LONG rap back to the start. Tie knots in the end of your rope! I used almost all of my 70m rope on the rap straight down.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 12, 2010

Great, scaryass lead on solid features. I got in a small nut before the first bolt and another between bolts 1 and 2 (otherwise it's a groundfall). Really don't trust that either would have held a fall as the seams were very shallow.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 8, 2010

I remember this as a fun climb. I didn't place anything besides clipping the bolts, but I do not recommend this for 5.7 leaders! The runouts were on reasonably easy sections.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 8, 2010

And tie knots in your 60m if you want to toprope this or Village Idiot!!! It will NOT reach down to the ledge from which you start Zendance. You will have to swing over to Village Idiot ledge.

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