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Zen Garden aka Ninja Training Cave
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The Shaol in Finger Jab 
Zen Garden 

Zen Garden 

Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 45'
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ PG13 [details]
FA: Dean Potter
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: ben jammin on Feb 24, 2015

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Guide to Ninja Mastery 

Zen Garden was pretty hyped at the time of send with even The Alpinist quoting Dean Potter as saying it was the hardest roof crack he'd climbed in the desert. Quite a distinction coming from Mr. Potter.

This is obviously the money line and the one that demands your attention when you enter the cave. 30 some feet of fully horizontal climbing leads to a highball mantel high above a tree. A proud line that is a test of power-endurance and core strength.

Here's the breakdown. Squat start all the way in the back on an angled jug. Half a dozen v3/4 moves gets you to a jug, extend out, grab what you can and cut the feet (crux, probably about v8/9). From here, most people will just campus off two fingers to another jug. As you rest on the jug relax your core, and your mind, for the real red point crux. Make a few big moves to another jug high on the headwall and choose your commitment de jour. Some use a crimp out left and hand/foot match, while I've been using a insecure heel hook out right. This final move to the lip feels about V6+ for my 6'3 wingspan. Either way, go from the jug to the lip keeping a watchful eye of the tree directly beneath you. Negotiate a slick and insecure mantel 20 feet off the deck and you're done.

Recently published in Karl Kelly's High On Moab guidebook, it has been one of Moab's 'secret but not really secret' spots for years. Dean didn't grade it but said it was quite a step up from the Crackhouse. In Karl's book Zach Smith gives a grade of V10, another hard-man of whom I wouldn't question their qualifications. Either way, you get an extra point for going for it over that tree. Good luck.

Protection 

Lots of pads if you're going for the send. A spotter in the tree wouldn't hurt either.


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By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Nov 21, 2015

This may not actually be very Pg13 anymore. Sometime between this Spring and this Fall the tree has started to fall into the pond and isn't as much of a hazard. It was a wet spring so maybe the extra amount of water hitting it and unrooting it?.. that, slackliners or brahdo's. That being said the topout is still a tall MF so check it.

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