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Zen and the Art 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stuart & Bret Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Boissal on Jun 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Zen and the Art


If you thought the holds on Lone Man Running were huge this line has your name written all over it! It features very similar climbing at first but before you know it you're desperately trying to stick to a mirror of rippled quartzite.

Between the 3rd and 5th bolt (crux) there's barely anything that qualifies as a hold. The rock is compact, without texture, featuring gentle ripples. Don't despair, keep bumping your feet on microscopic divots and crimping barely visible edges. If you manage to keep it together and you picked a low-gravity day, you might be able to snag the thank-god hold (yes, hold!) and make the impossible 5th clip.
Don't get too excited though or you'll blow the moves en route to the piton or the 6th bolt!
Above this you'll re-enter familiar terrain (if you've warmed up on Lone Man that is), start looking for a spot to unload the heavy cams that almost cost you the send...


10' right of Lone Man Running, above the chokestone at the top of the very vegetated gully. Try to flatten a spot in the soft dirt to belay.

My 70m was just long enough to rappel from the extended anchor, be really careful if you clean the route on rap or lower from the anchor. In doubt aim up-gully for the base of LMR or bring 2 ropes and save yourself the heinous downclimb by rappelling to the base of the chokestone.
Take cover when you pull the rope...


6 bolts and a piton.
The 4th and 5th clips are hard, don't get greedy and try to clip early or you'll shake yourself off the stances.
Microcams, small nuts and a #2 for the upper face.

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