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Zed's Dead 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & L. Stern, 5/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 398
Submitted By: Monty on May 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Sticking the redpoint crux on the FA.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


"Who's motorcycle is this?"
"It's a chopper, baby."
"Who's chopper is this?"
"It's Zed's."
"Who's Zed?"
"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

One of the steepest routes at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Climb past 5 bolts then work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. Clip a 6th bolt, fight through a final crux and enjoy the swollen forearms. This thing is PUMPY!


It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.


In order:
5 bolts (with permadraws), BD #3, #2, bolt, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1. It is possible to get a couple more finger-sized pieces in, but that is the rack that worked for me.

Photos of Zed's Dead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody on the pumpy Zed's Dead.
Cody on the pumpy Zed's Dead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost at the chains.
Almost at the chains.

Comments on Zed's Dead Add Comment
Show which comments
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
May 26, 2013

Wow, incredible looking wall, crazy looking lines. These guys deserve props.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 29, 2013

Is that C4 #4?
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 29, 2017

You no longer need a number 4 for this route, which means this route is much safer now too.

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