REI Community
East Wall, North End (Diamond Dogs Area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barking Spiders S 
Bong Along T 
Bunnies TR 
Diamond Dogs T 
Guardian Angels S 
Lenore Goldberg T 
Lickety Dogs TR 
Lickety Splits T 
No-Doz T 
Teen Steam T 
Uncertainty Principle T 
Zardoz T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mat Cox and Shawn Curtis, 1974
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 11, 2002

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Christa Cline doing the hard variation on the righ...


Climb the low-angled, dished-out face passing a small roof (gear here) partway up the route and climb past one bolt to anchors. This route is quite run-out so best be solid at the grade if attempting to lead it.


This is the left-most route on the northern end of the formation and just left of Lickety Splits.


Gear to 1.5 inches, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Lickety Splits)

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By C Miller
From: CA
Jul 16, 2002

The name Zardoz comes from a 1974 sci-fi movie starring Sean Connery.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 24, 2005

"The leader must not fall" ahh, those were the days, but before my time (honestly).
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

A selection of TCU's? I placed one under the roof and that was all I could find! Ran right up the first time - loved it! Scared the hell out of me the second time I led it. The slab part is no issue but I really wouldn't want to fall from the side of the block, above the roof. From now on it's lead Lickety Splits and leave Zardoz for the TR.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Yes very runout! No falling!
By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 18, 2015

If you go left at the roof there is another good place or two for pro. The slab above the block is easier than the slab on Lickety Splits imo.

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