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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Zap Snack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Patrik on Sep 13, 2012

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  • Description 

    From the current guidebooks (Rossiter's/Levine's), this single pitch starts with the broken crack on Fine Line to a large ledge then steps right and picks up the left-facing dihedral of the upper part of Terminal Velocity. An even better combo is to start with White Lightning. Pull through its crux and go up about 6 more feet to a hand jam crack. Step left and stand on a sizable jug of Terminal Velocity. Go up to the ledge and continue the dihedral.

    This is a great first 10c lead in Eldo as it takes nuts every foot on the upper dihedral (the crux).


    Standard rack. Medium/smallish nuts for the upper half. Maybe a small cam (blue/green Alien?) to prevent gear zippering in the dihedral.

    Comments on Zap Snack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    Apr 27, 2015
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    The upper corner of this route has a lot of thin stemming that gets increasingly difficult. I don't know if you are intended to pull right on to the arete in between White Lightning and this at the top to make it 10c, but it felt harder than the given grade stemming straight up through the corner. I'm 5'9", so maybe it will be easier for a taller climber? I TR'd the lower crux of Terminal Velocity and found the crux technically more difficult but overall way less effort than the upper corner. Small nuts are probably best to protect the upper corner but were hard to place with the wide stemming stance required so I opted for TCUs and ballnuts. Not a "good first Eldo 10c" IMO.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jun 18, 2015
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Agreed, escaping to the arete keeps it in the 5.10 range, but 5.10c is a sandbag for stemming through the top corner if you don't have freakish yoga/splits abilities. A couple comments on Terminal Velocity back this up too, people saying the upper corner is harder than the lower 5.11b/c crux.

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