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Routes in Macheni
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Bees Knees, The TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gothic TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gothic Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Not Just a Shadow TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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There Are No Thorns in Zambia (And the Streets are Paved with Cheese) TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Elevation: | 3,711 ft |
| GPS: |
-15.58442, 28.42932 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 6,306 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | willclimb4pants on Nov 30, 2015 |
| Admins: |
Description
A waterfall cut out a great overhanging south-facing limestone crag full of tufas about an hour from Lusaka. Climbs are around 30m (90 ft) tall. This was first found by a local aspiring climber, Damien, who scoured GoogleEarth to find images of shadows that may indicate cliffs. Pete Hart, Hillary Waters, and Rolf Wienand established the crag.
I'm not sure why I can't change the "season" chart, but the season is likely between April or May and December. Immediately after it rains or in the late rainy season (Jan - March) if it has rained a lot this could be drenched in water and very difficult to get to or climb (has thus far not been a problem, even the day after a rain). Because it is south-facing and there are trees at the base it is quite comfortable to climb even on incredibly hot days.
This is secluded (there are about 4 climbers in the entire country), but locals walking by do tend to stop, watch, and cheer us on. It doesn't look like this land is being used or that there's a problem with us using it, but nothing official has been worked out regarding access (we just asked a few locals and explained what they were doing and they seemed excited about it) so be friendly to all those around. If you're into it, locals may also want to try climbing, as we often asked people if they wanted to and they were quite keen.
For now, the crag is trad and top-rope only--whether it will be bolted depends on rock quality and whether someone with equipment will come bolt. Keep checking for updates. Right now the tops of most climbs are on tufa-like stalagtites that sound hollow, so it's unclear whether it can be bolted. Since the rock is porous we are also looking at stringing cord through holes to create some way to lead the climbs. So far, very little rock has broken off.
As of 2015, a team of four of us are cleaning the area--taking down some trees that are in the way of routes, setting up a trail, clearing brush, dealing with the many thorns at the base and top of the cliff, and doing small amounts of cleaning on the rock face. We are also looking into removing some bees hives on the cliff to make the climbs safer. It is highly recommended to rap the route first to check for bees hives, snakes, and owls in the holes!! There are some huge African Rock Python snake skins in the area, so be generally aware of snakes, though bees are much more of a problem.
I'm not sure why I can't change the "season" chart, but the season is likely between April or May and December. Immediately after it rains or in the late rainy season (Jan - March) if it has rained a lot this could be drenched in water and very difficult to get to or climb (has thus far not been a problem, even the day after a rain). Because it is south-facing and there are trees at the base it is quite comfortable to climb even on incredibly hot days.
This is secluded (there are about 4 climbers in the entire country), but locals walking by do tend to stop, watch, and cheer us on. It doesn't look like this land is being used or that there's a problem with us using it, but nothing official has been worked out regarding access (we just asked a few locals and explained what they were doing and they seemed excited about it) so be friendly to all those around. If you're into it, locals may also want to try climbing, as we often asked people if they wanted to and they were quite keen.
For now, the crag is trad and top-rope only--whether it will be bolted depends on rock quality and whether someone with equipment will come bolt. Keep checking for updates. Right now the tops of most climbs are on tufa-like stalagtites that sound hollow, so it's unclear whether it can be bolted. Since the rock is porous we are also looking at stringing cord through holes to create some way to lead the climbs. So far, very little rock has broken off.
As of 2015, a team of four of us are cleaning the area--taking down some trees that are in the way of routes, setting up a trail, clearing brush, dealing with the many thorns at the base and top of the cliff, and doing small amounts of cleaning on the rock face. We are also looking into removing some bees hives on the cliff to make the climbs safer. It is highly recommended to rap the route first to check for bees hives, snakes, and owls in the holes!! There are some huge African Rock Python snake skins in the area, so be generally aware of snakes, though bees are much more of a problem.
Getting There
Option 1:
From Leopards Hill Road leaving Lusaka, take the first right after the boom. Then take a right turn at the taxidermy shop, going past a private game reserve and a place called "Bush View". Follow the road until you see a green building to the right and a plot of land with only a foundation to the left. Just after the foundation there's a road going left, follow that road until you arrive at the cliff.
Option 2:
Take the same route out of the city as "option 1". Keep going on the "Bushview" road past the Chinese mine, turn south @ -15.560874, 28.433213
Turn west toward the crag @ -15.589710, 28.434706. You'll pass an apostolic church @ -15.588972, 28.432617 and the crag is @ -15.584420, 28.429320
Note: the GPS coordinates given are the exact location of the crag and the crag was originally found using google earth maps, so access to the satellite photos may likely be much more useful than the above directions.
You should be able to park a vehicle on the western side of the crag in an area locals seem to use for charcoal making. The hike from the road to the crag should take about 2 minutes, the trip from Lusaka will take anywhere from an hour to longer, depending on how fast you can go on terrible roads with your vehicle. You'll definitely want a 4x4 to go to this area.
Option 3: (deemed the easiest on your vehicle after many trips):
Take Kasama Road south out of Lusaka and turn left at the T junction (towards Lilayi Lodge) and then take a right at the next T junction. After the Katoke Catholic school take a right south past a stone quarry (you'll have to drive past it almost as if you're going into it, the road gets bad from here). Follow around a 'mountain' and into a farming community, turning right where you would instead have to go straight through someone's field. Follow that road to the crag.
ONCE THERE:
The crag is obvious and easy to spot. To get to the top, you can choose to class V scramble up the waterfall (it's slippery but there are only 2 moves that make you nervous) or walk to the top via climber's left and then cross the river at the top. At one point there was a path and some of the trees have markings along the path to the top and at the tops of some climbs.
From Leopards Hill Road leaving Lusaka, take the first right after the boom. Then take a right turn at the taxidermy shop, going past a private game reserve and a place called "Bush View". Follow the road until you see a green building to the right and a plot of land with only a foundation to the left. Just after the foundation there's a road going left, follow that road until you arrive at the cliff.
Option 2:
Take the same route out of the city as "option 1". Keep going on the "Bushview" road past the Chinese mine, turn south @ -15.560874, 28.433213
Turn west toward the crag @ -15.589710, 28.434706. You'll pass an apostolic church @ -15.588972, 28.432617 and the crag is @ -15.584420, 28.429320
Note: the GPS coordinates given are the exact location of the crag and the crag was originally found using google earth maps, so access to the satellite photos may likely be much more useful than the above directions.
You should be able to park a vehicle on the western side of the crag in an area locals seem to use for charcoal making. The hike from the road to the crag should take about 2 minutes, the trip from Lusaka will take anywhere from an hour to longer, depending on how fast you can go on terrible roads with your vehicle. You'll definitely want a 4x4 to go to this area.
Option 3: (deemed the easiest on your vehicle after many trips):
Take Kasama Road south out of Lusaka and turn left at the T junction (towards Lilayi Lodge) and then take a right at the next T junction. After the Katoke Catholic school take a right south past a stone quarry (you'll have to drive past it almost as if you're going into it, the road gets bad from here). Follow around a 'mountain' and into a farming community, turning right where you would instead have to go straight through someone's field. Follow that road to the crag.
ONCE THERE:
The crag is obvious and easy to spot. To get to the top, you can choose to class V scramble up the waterfall (it's slippery but there are only 2 moves that make you nervous) or walk to the top via climber's left and then cross the river at the top. At one point there was a path and some of the trees have markings along the path to the top and at the tops of some climbs.
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