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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy, 2009
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 21, 2011

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Matt Nance preparing to style the opening moves on...


Oh-sweet Zagori! Means: "WHY THE HELL didn't I buy that 80m rope when I had the chance?!"

Zagori starts with a bang. Work up to the first bolt from the left with a bear hug/iron cross bouldering move off a small tufa pipet. Up more blah gray (I thought he said THREE stars?!?) until you start seeing steep orange walls and perfect pockets chiseled by Leonardolopis, Da Vinci's older Greek cousin who never moved beyond sculptures of swiss cheese. Link the pockets and send around a hero bulge with great clips and great exposure.

At this point you'll swear you're back at Rifle. Except that you have good feet and fresh guns and there's nary a snotty ranger tagging your car with some bullshit parking ticket.

Fire up the endless headwall until the air starts thinning and you can see the curvature of the planet. Clip the chains, and now start figuring out how the hell you're gonna reenter the earth's atmosphere with that midget of a 60m rope you brought. (I hear rumors that a 70 well managed can bring you back down to the ground. Sorta/kinda.)

Fantastic warm-up. May feel VERY soft for the grade, but that's typical for a Boris, Claude, and Yves route. (Really? Who the hell saddles their children with "Boris," "Claude," and/or "Yves," anyway? Is'n't "Yves" a Mongolian strain of TB or something? Yves. Honestly.)


Extreme south (right) side of Iannis. Second from the right. See that micro, in-yer-face dihedral you've got to throw out to before you hit the first bolt? Good luck!


Seventeen thousand, six hundred, forty-three draws. And an oxygen mask. There's a 2-bolt/1-'biner anchor just inside the orbit of Mars.

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