|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mark Rolofson, Alfredo Len, 1980|
|Fixed Hardware:||1 Lead Bolt [details]|
|Submitted By:||Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Aug 1, 2001|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Zabrina||Add Comment|
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By Anonymous Coward
Feb 19, 2003
Hey Crusher, great review about a climb that Mark and I put up in 1980, wow, how yeras go by ha? This was actually the first climb in the Veil, after we found out what Alec was doing in this neighbohood.
So how are you, are any other old time brits left in Boulder?, i know about Nick Donnelly and Dereck, really too bad.
Cheers, and send a note
PS as you can see i am back in Peru for the last 12 years, do you ever come this way?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The only bolt on the route is easily clipped after a mantle and stand up on a good 2" ledge, although standing up there is balancy. The bolt is a 26 year old (and counting) rusted button-head with a thin Leeper hanger (the type that were recalled). Then you do a thin crux (10b/c) and keep climbing.
Some pretty bad gear peppers the first pitch of that route thereafter, none of it being trustworthy. The formulation of the 'calculated risk' was too complex to compute while leading this route as there were too many dependencies on which pieces would blow and if they did, how much energy would they absorb before you hit the next peace- affecting it's potential to hold. As well, one must toss into the formula the increased odds of taking a fall at the top bulge before the ledge, as there is some bad rock there that could fail.
Realistically, there would be a significant chance of a ground fall from a decently long section of the first pitch. While incalculable, I felt the best summary would be to say:
"The crux is protected by a 26 year-old button-head with a Leeper hanger, and the rest of the pitch is far worse."
I should better hope that any leader here is comfortable on 5.9 VS.
The second pitch takes good gear and you can get a very large nut or a brown tricam up at a short pod in the crack overhead before committing to the hand-munching, flaring jams at the second pitch crux (5.9+ my patooey- sandbaggers). After doing that mid-5.10 move, continue up on mostly 5.8 and easier rock to the top. I did not belay on the ledge, but rather continued, as a ledge belay would have been awkward and would run the rope over a sharp edge at a high angle. It was far more gentle from above, and a few cams 1.5-3" protected reasonably well.
Apr 5, 2008
|The bolt has been replaced.|