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Another long somewhat adventurous face climb. Much harder than the other routes on this face. I felt it was 5.12a but since the book calls it 5.11c I decided to meet it in the middle at 5.11d please vote on it's difficulty and i will make a change if need be. It looked like a few holds had broken off in key spots. It could also do with a good scrubbing or better yet some traffic.
Start on moderate moves, maybe 5.9ish to a good stance beneath the crux wall. About 25 feet of hard tricky sequency climbing is between you and your next rest. This is where it looked like things may have broken off. I did find a Sequence of crimps that got me through the first 20 feet of the crux but I did some crazy moves to make the last 5 feet and that is where i felt it was more "12a"ish to gain the ledge above. The next part is maybe 5.10a to another ledge and you think you are in the clear until you pull over what you think is the top and see you have about 15 feet of 5.10 slab to the anchors (cue the rope drag). Stay cool and try not to blow all your hard work as you slowly make your way to the anchor.
Next route left of Abbey Normal 5.10c (this one is easy to identify by its shorter length than the others) up the gully to the right...
14 bolts to anchor with fixed biners...
You can just make it back down with a 60m rope but tie a knot in the end and be ready to have to downclimb 5 feet or so or maybe swing right to get to the ground...
By Eric Leclerc
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On my onsight attempt, I got shut down at the last 5 feet Lee is talking about.
I found an easy sequence that made the last 5 feet easier than the first 15.
The 2009 guidebook says 11d and I think it's fair.