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Long Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approach, The T 
Are the Pies Fresh? S 
Autumn T 
B3 T 
Back Door to Paris S 
Big Country T 
Bloodline T 
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights S 
Cruise Control T 
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 
Fire and Finess S 
Game Boy S 
Gift, The S 
Gladuator S 
Hot September T 
Kazi and Mito S 
Long Wall Chimney T 
Mailbox T 
NEPA This T 
Next Day Air T 
Now I'm Nothing T,TR 
Perforator T 
Ralph & Bob's T 
Rock Caddie S 
Rock Wars T 
Sacred Geometry T 
Snatch, The S 
Souders Crack T 
Stand and Deliver S 
Suction Lipectomy T 
Trinket Man S 
Two Step T 
Vector Trouble T 
Whip It Out S 
Yuk T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: FA: J Koenig, T. Souders, R. Snyder, '84 (TR)
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Getting to the squeeze. Splitter!


Great (Yum) if you like OW. Bad (Yuk) if you don't. Climb up the OW with chicken-wings, heal-toes, arm bars and the occasional chest-jam. Body size is a factor and larger folks may not get any rest and may really not like this climb. Top out on the obvious shelf and belay your partner up. There is a rap station above shared by Mailbox (5.8+).


Continue right past the huge inset with the classics Autumn and Rock wars From those climbs start watching for an angled wall facing you, and for the huge crack splitting it top-to-bottom. This is Yuk.


TR or lots of wide gear. I "lead" this on some tube chocks before large cams wand big-bros were around, but that was a VS/X rated ascent and even with wide cams, I am not sure how many you could lug up there and place...

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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Classic OW climbing. Would be even better if it got a little more traffic, as the top is kind of dirty. Also, hard for the grade!

Does not protect with cams unless you have Valley Giants; takes #3 and #4 big bros pretty well, though. I found a single #2 camalot placement in a horizontal on the right face.