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Approach, The T 
Are the Pies Fresh? S 
Autumn T 
B3 T 
Back Door to Paris S 
Big Country T 
Bloodline T 
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Cruise Control T 
Fear and Loathing in Nada T 
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Gladuator S 
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Long Wall Chimney T 
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Now I'm Nothing T,TR 
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Rock Wars T 
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Snatch, The S 
Souders Crack T 
Stand and Deliver S 
Suction Lipectomy T 
Trinket Man S 
Two Step T 
Vector Trouble T 
Whip It Out S 
Yuk T 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: FA: J Koenig, T. Souders, R. Snyder, '84 (TR)
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,210
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Getting to the squeeze. Splitter!


Great (Yum) if you like OW. Bad (Yuk) if you don't. Climb up the OW with chicken-wings, heal-toes, arm bars and the occasional chest-jam. Body size is a factor and larger folks may not get any rest and may really not like this climb. Top out on the obvious shelf and belay your partner up. There is a rap station above shared by Mailbox (5.8+).


Continue right past the huge inset with the classics Autumn and Rock wars From those climbs start watching for an angled wall facing you, and for the huge crack splitting it top-to-bottom. This is Yuk.


TR or lots of wide gear. I "lead" this on some tube chocks before large cams wand big-bros were around, but that was a VS/X rated ascent and even with wide cams, I am not sure how many you could lug up there and place...

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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Classic OW climbing. Would be even better if it got a little more traffic, as the top is kind of dirty. Also, hard for the grade!

Does not protect with cams unless you have Valley Giants; takes #3 and #4 big bros pretty well, though. I found a single #2 camalot placement in a horizontal on the right face.
By Steven Lesiecki
Mar 26, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I got on this this weekend, I cleaned up the anchor, it now has two new pieces of webbing (3/17). if the next person up brings a new biner that be great but its solid now. I did want to say this though, the book says you can TR it, this is true, but its misleading. the anchor is 5' right of the crack, so you need 5' or so of something to redirect off a small bush over the crack. It is also slightly overhung, which makes TR'ing hard. Also,the travers is unprotect but its a 20' easy shuffle on a 1' ledge over there, my partner didn't want to do it so I actually lowered her off of Mailbox. If your going to lead it (which i plan on next time) be solid in your groveling, it will be a little sketchy. I think 2-3 6's will cover the bottom 1/3 if you don't mind them being completely tipped out, and then 4 big bro's for the top, at least 2., and watch the loose block at the top.

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