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Black Rose
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Yuji Feet S 

Yuji Feet 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Boone Speed
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: Brian Koralewski on Aug 3, 2009  with updates from John Ross

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Yuji Feet 5.11C

Description 

It seems like I've never seen anyone climb this route. And it's the last route in the Black Rose area to be added to Mt. Project. Strange, given it is one of the most accessible routes in the canyon.

When I climbed it years ago, it was all hang-dog- the 1st 11c I ever tried. Since it was just outfitted with new bolts (see comments below), I guess it's time to go climb this again!

Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchors.

Location 

This is the left/north face of the Black Rose formation, next to the little cave/overhang.


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By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Aug 3, 2009

I heard an interesting story about this route. Jeff Pedersen once watched a young 16 year old climber, Yuji Hirayama, do a route at Smith Rocks. Yuji wrapped his feet around the formation in order to climb it. This same "feet wrapping" technique is helpful on this route, otherwise the route is 5.13b. As a side note, Yuji Hirayama has since become quite an accomplished climber (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yuji_Hir... ). Find amazing videos of Yuji san on YouTube.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Aug 4, 2009

1/4" button heads replaced with 3/8" Powers bolts 7/9/09.
By James Leavy
From: Provo, Uah
Sep 10, 2015

Has anyone climbed the 5.13 variation?
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Sep 10, 2015

DK at Mountainworks told me about the 5.13b variation. Not sure where that rating would come from unless someone has done it. Maybe DK could comment on that.
By ABG
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Oct 9, 2015

Fa Boone Speed... Boone watched yuji climbing in Smith and bolted this route naming it after him.

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