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Yuck Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Scully/Rob Edwards, 1995
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Oct 28, 2014

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Yuck Crack climbs the steep face of the Goosehead through a weakness to the right of The Morgue. From the start, surf big holds through weird, balancy moves to a jug/ledge rest at the third bolt. At this point, engage some strange climbing up the crumbly crack feature to a large edge left of the crack. Clip the bolt, then work your feet up and span to the obvious jug feature out right. Hard-to-read face climbing leads past one more bolt to the chains.

This route is somewhat crumbly as it doesn't appear to receive a lot of traffic. I also don't think the jug feature will remain intact for too many more ascents, which is a shame because the moves out to it and off of it are pretty cool. The bottom half of the route is quite funky.


First route right of The Morgue (starting off the next tier down).


5 bolts to a two bolt anchor (a vertically-equalized Fixe ring/chain setup).

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