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Ypperpresten (The High Priest) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on May 17, 2017

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Mia on the traverse

Description 

A great route that ends halfway up Presten on storhylla. The rock on the 3+4 pitches is embedded basalt, with imaginative waves, curls, and holes. I hesitated to give this route only two stars, because it is better than any route of the grade I have climbed in CO, but compared to the other routes on Presten it is A) shorter, and B) the rock is a little more suspect.

Start at the grove on a high ledge towards the left side of the face (L of Vestpillaren by ~100m. You do some grass stepping at first to get onto the rock. Clamber up a ways through a short 10- section before a traverse right to easier ground to an anchor below the chimney.

The next pitch goes left of the chimney to easy cracks and follows grooves up and left to a grass knoll.

Climb up a short crack and aim towards the weakness in the roof above. The gear is good through this whole pitch but you have to work for it. Pull through the roof to a grassy crack and then begin climbing the basalt dike to some ledges. Belay at the highest ledge.

Gloriously romp your way up the runout ladder. Fantastic. Belay at some grass before storehylla.

Traverse way right on storhylla, mostly grass, but some slab traversing at the very end (go high). May require splitting this in two pitches.

Rappel down from here using double 50m.

Location 

Groove. grassy steps before. on the ledge to the left. right of the rf dihedral. Hard to describe without a picture.

Protection 

Double rack. #3 is nice.


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