Yowza

A nice fun route on the far left of the cliff. It's pure adventure climbing where you climb a pitch, bushwack through trees, getting to a new section, passing more trees and so on. You have no idea what will come up next! Most of the route is 5.5 terrain with some 5.7 moves on every pitch.

FA-Er P. Cormier suggests future climbers might bring a folding saw to help clear some of the vegetation you have to go through.

Note: The route is rated 5.9 because of the fourth pitch. It does however have a new 5.7 variation, keeping the whole route at that grade!

START- From the base of October Sundae bushwack left along the cliff till you get to a nice clean white slab on the far left side of the cliff. At the slab, scramble up on the left edge of the slab to a small dirt ledge. (See Photo of the correct slab to start on)

P1. Follow the path of least resistance up the slab with some gear here and there up to a two bolt anchor. 170' 5.6-5.7

P2. Here you have two options:

* Climb up veering left over over a triangular right facing flake and continue up the slab to the trees. 120' 5.6

* Traverse left with delicate moves past the bush to the slab behind and continue up through some fun moves to belay at the trees. 140' 5.6-5.7

Move the belay 40 ft past the trees. 40'

P3. Climb easier slab to steeper terrain and the headwall with a distinct diagonal crack. Surmount the headwall on the right of the crack for easier moves. For those looking for more interesting moves, use the crack or go left of it. Then continue on easier terrain to the trees. 195' 5.6-5.7

Move the belay 50 ft past the trees. 50'

P4. You have two options here:

* When you get to the trees above, go right through the trees. When looking up you will see a steeper slab with a blue bolt. This is the crux of the route. Climb the slab and then veer right over easier featured terrain to the trees. 190' 5.9

* To keep the route at 5.7 you can instead go straight up through the trees and you will see a head wall literally right where the trees end and the start of the pitch. Climb this head wall using underclings and fun moves. Then veer right (and you will see the blue bolt to your right from the 5.9 variation). Continue up and right through easier and featured terrain to the trees. 170' 5.7

Move the belay 50 ft past the trees. 50'

P5. Here you also have two options:

* Climb the really nice slab straight up. Halfway up there's a small pocket for pro, but other wise not much else. Then veer right and traverse right all the way to the October Sundae top anchor. 170' 5.6

* If you want more pro and featured terrain you can go up just right of the clean slab and when reaching the top veer right and traverse right all the way to the October Sundae top anchor. 170' 5.5

GPS: N44.464894, W71.068957

Get there by taking the New trail to Oct. Sundae. (See “Getting There” for North Bald Cap Area). Then bushwack left along the cliff till you get to a nice clean white slab on the far left side of the cliff. At the slab, scramble up on the left edge of the slab to a small dirt ledge.