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Your light rack?
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Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: First summit of First Flatiron
So a few of the route descriptions for some alpine climbs I'm looking at say to bring a "light rack" or a "skeleton rack". What does this mean to you? I almost always climb with a set of nuts, tricams .25-2 and .3-3 c4s. What would you pare down to make this a "skeleton rack"? Derek W
Joined Jun 27, 2008
38 points
Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
mix small & large nuts maybe 6 total, tri-cams/hexes, yer-gonna-die aliens, singles of cams to 2" -- unless something sticks out as big needed. Possibly doubling up in the just off-fingers sizes; or gutting your cams to the 2-4 essential pieces; route dependent I guess.

You are basically looking to move fast & light and be efficient with anchors and climbing. Don't discount the possibility of natural chocks/boulders and the climbing rope as the anchor rig.

Possibly pins may be thought of; where I already have my tools and carry 6 or so, otherwise I won't think of pins.

Those alpine dyneema/spectra sling setups are way light.
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,506 points
Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: OMG, I winz!!!
My non personal gear light rack is:

WC super light rocks
Pink tricam
Blue and Yellow TCU
BD .5 to 1 (or 2)
~5 shoulder length draws
2 double length draws

This assumes short pitches or big runouts on easy terrain. Almost always a leader does not fall situation or simul climbing. I will add a big hex or ice screws or pitons as needed. If I think I will need more pieces I add my BD nuts.
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: What was left of the rack when I topped out on the...
some nuts, 2 link cams, 7.7 mil ice line (doubled over)
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthes Crest Rack
Matthes Crest Rack

Rock Climbing Photo: snake dike topout
snake dike topout
Jordan Ramey
From Calgary, Alberta
Joined Jun 15, 2006
4,395 points
Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
It also depends a lot on the type of rock. The cracks in RMNP and the Indian peaks tend to be very featured and take passive gear really well. I've done a fair amount of climbing there with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes. Obviously, this plan wouldn't work so well in Indian Creek. Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,661 points
Jul 5, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory
This post reminded of a Patagonia Video on YouTube. Check out Steve House's "light" rack for Nanga Parbat (starting around 3:40). Cool video otherwise.
Cory Sipher
From Roseburg, OR
Joined Jun 11, 2006
10 points
Feb 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
Boy that’s a pretty open question. Depends on the route, beta on the route, ability/probability to bail, grade, and your comfort at that grade. Sounds like you are talking about strictly rock. In that case climbing at a grade I am comfortable here’s what I would bring:
mid size nuts
tri-cams for the upper size of nuts and lower size of cams
couple of link cams
maybe a BD #3 if called for
From Your moms house last night
Joined Sep 6, 2010
48 points
Feb 7, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: sierra eastside
small to medium nuts singles
small aliens to gold camelot---singles
no tricams

Joined Apr 13, 2009
283 points
Feb 24, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
skimp on big gear, and carabiners. if you bring alpine slings only bring 1 biner on each. losing 8-10 biners will lighten up your rack big time! Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
842 points

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