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You may say I'm a Dreamer 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Aaron Stireman, David Gealy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Serial Crusher on Dec 31, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Redpoint

Description 

As good as it gets, and better than it looks.

If you love slabby face climbing and body tension dependent climbing, than this route is one of the best that Bishop Peak has to offer.

Sustained smears, edges, and just enough small pockets to take you through a beautiful sequence up some really clean rock.

An obvious must try if you can climb the grade...a worthy project if you can not.

It might look like a 6 move boulder problem from the ground, but for BP this thing is as sustained as it gets!

Don't get suckered into pulling on pockets too early.

Protection 

4 bolts.

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Belay Beta:

It's really nice to put a single locker on bolt 1 and a draw on bolt 2, and then clip them both before you cast off. Easier for you and the belayer this way.

Crux is below bolt 3.

The rest is 5 star .10a up a great flake feature to the top.

Location 

The obvious middle route on the Planet Earth Wall.

Look for a right facing flake about 8' off the deck.


Photos of You may say I'm a Dreamer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Equipping
Equipping
Rock Climbing Photo: Stuck 1/2" bit. Biggest pain...
Stuck 1/2" bit. Biggest pain...
Rock Climbing Photo: David Gealy working out the moves
David Gealy working out the moves

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