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You Don't Know Jack S 

You Don't Know Jack 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 3,124
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Dec 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Jack on the "You Don't Know Jack".


Shares the same start as Red Devil (5.12b).

Boulder start (or jump for a jug) underneath the roof, climb huecos until you reach a sloper undercling, From here reach the well-chalked jug and a fingerlock, pull the lip and stand up to a small undercling, reach up to the bigger undercling and then go left to good holds.

This is essentially where you leave Red Devil, moving left entails some strenuous core movement, continue up and left with balancy lieback moves to another fingerlock and twistlock into a good flake, move right to crimpers until you can reach the leftmost sidepull of Red Devil, creep upwards on the occasional good hold and a bunch of nothing to the anchor.

A better route than Red Devil. A bit longer with much better movement, plus you have to do the best/crux moves of both routes.


Left of Espresso in the middle of the roof


4 chain draws, 1 hanger to 2 chains with wiregate carabiners at the anchor.

Photos of You Don't Know Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "You Don't Know Jack". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "You Don't Know Jack". Photo by Blitzo.

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By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Dec 21, 2006

Actually, I do know Jack.

Jack SUCKS j/k
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 21, 2010

Fun route, continuously engaging, and certainly better than Red Devil, which, in my opinion, wimps out after the crux. The top brings a balancy bang after the pumpy bottom sections.

By the way, thanks are in order to Jack for putting up with my pestering last Sunday (March 21st) regarding route beta. If you see Jack, thank him for, well, being Jack.

By Irene Yee
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Apr 29, 2015

Careful of the first permadraw on this route. The quick link through the hanger is extemely worn, more then half way through. Use your own draw before continuing. Make sense since this is a crux and has taken more then it's fair share of falls.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Mar 6, 2017

March 2017 status: The first 2 fixed biners have been replaced and are both in good condition, but with no safety wire to hold the biners in place. All other fixed draws are originals and still ok.

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