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The Castle
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5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
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Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

You Can't Chop This 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: VFA: Pat Peddy, Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jun 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbs on the Garrison. 1) Hardgumbi's Lament 2) W...


This is climb # 4 on the photo. It is on the south face of the James Brown Pillar (6). Start on easy ground for 30 feet until you reach a small roof. Reach around to the left and place some blind brass, and then pull the roof (crux). There is an alternate 5.9 method farther to the left, but the original leader went this way. After pulling the small roof, there is a very nice jam crack leading to the top.

Perhaps this crack and others on the Garrison were climbed decades ago,
but I thought I'd put it on the map as a VFA (virtual FA). Climbed in
the late 80's/early 90's. If anyone has conflicting information, please let me know.


On the small pillar to the north (right) of the Garrison.


Standard Platte rack

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