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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish S 

You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Woodhouse - 1997
Page Views: 1,525
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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BETA PHOTO: pic of route

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Challenging face climbing with a short crux section about midway.

Starting on a slabby section, balance your way to the first bolt about 15' up. Work through crimpy features up to a slightly overhanging crux; good footwork will put you in a position to throw for a nice jug. Continue up the face to the anchors.

Location 

Starts just right of C Sharp or B Flat.

Protection 

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.

Permit Required 

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.


Photos of You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bradley Killough
Bradley Killough

Comments on You Can Tune a Piano, but You Can't Tuna Fish Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Oct 25, 2008

Needs chains at the top. Lots of rope drag, lowering.
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Feb 18, 2009

Agree about chains.

Also, as of 2/7/09, spinning bolt hangar on either last or second to last bolt, can't remember exactly which.
By Adam Love
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of 6/30/09 Bolt still spun - agree about drag and need to replace bolt.
By Kevin Heist
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I noticed 2 loose bolt hangers on this route. I don't remember exactly which but they were mid-route.
By DaveBaker
From: Durham, NC
Aug 25, 2015

Chains are TERRIBLE. I was the belayer, not the climber on this one, but they are corroded very significantly. We left gear to rap off.

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