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California
> Los Angeles Basin
> Angeles Nationa…
> Williamson Rock
> Headwall/Leaning Pillar
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5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Headwall/Leaning Pillar
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Finger Bang S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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One Move S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solid Emptiness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Threshold, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wedding March S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Where Was I S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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You Are Here S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Troy Mayr, Kelley Penix and Tony Sweeney, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 747 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Benjamin Chapman on Mar 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Williamson Rock is currently closed to climbing.
Details
Williamson Rock is under a temporary closure to all recreational uses, including climbing, pursuant to a ruling by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service that the area is critical habitat for the endangered yellow-legged mountain frog. Efforts by the non-profit organization Friends of Williamson Rock, in conjunction with the U.S. Forest Service, are underway to regain climbing access to Williamson. For information on the status of these efforts, and to learn how you can help, contact the Friends of Williamson Rock: williamsonrock.org Per the Access Fund's update, in 2017 the Forest Service hopes to begin an environmental study of the impact of allowing limited climbing to resume. In the meantime, the Forest Service supervisor has extended the closure until January, 2017.
Description
Climb the left edge of the massive flake that forms the chimney at the base of the Headwall. Pull onto the face and utilize the left edge of the pillar to heel hook and side pull to clip the 1st bolt. Continue up the face, frequently using the left side of the pillar and face holds to make progress up the pillar. A crux bulge at 3/4 height leads to the anchor on the Headwall and a stance atop the pillar. The 2nd pitch continues up and over a bulge to the anchors.
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