|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015|
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By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 15, 2015
This route has some interesting history.
It was first toproped by Brett Yost and Ted Stahl in the 90s. Jeff Frizzel gave Alan Watts a list of lower gorge routes to be included in the second edition of the guidebook, and it included this route as a TR, with Frizzel naming it.
It sat neglected and undone for many years, in large part because it was a TR, but the anchor situation was horrible for toproping it, with heinous rope drag over a very rough/sharp edge that was very harsh on ropes. Furthermore, over the years I have seen a number of people getting their ropes fully and completely stuck in the finishing crack of As You Like It (which used to be the same top-out as Yost in Space).
Kent Benesch and I added a new anchor for As You Like It and Sauron in January 2015, significantly improving the TR situation, and so we TRed Yost In Space, and found it worthy and fun, and a separate line by gorge standards.
In February 2015 after taking a survey of gorge regulars as to whether I should leave it a TR or bolt it, the near unanimous decision was to make it leadable, so I bolted the line and led it, with a new face finish next to the crack finish of As You Like It/Sauron.
I wanted to rename the route "A Yost By Any Other Name" to give it a Shakespearean reference in its name (keeping it consistent with the remainder of the routes on Shakespeare wall), but I decided to honor the wishes of Brett and several longtime Gorge climbers and leave it with the name that Jeff Frizzel gave it.