Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(5) Shakespeare Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As You Like It T 
Azog T 
Big Woody T 
Love Struck Romeo T 
Measure for Measure S 
Midsummer Night's Scream T 
Much Ado About Nothing T 
Ophelia T 
Othello T 
Puck T 
Sauron T 
Sweet Sorrow S 
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 
Unknown T 
Yost In Space S 

Yost In Space 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Matt Farrell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Start on the pillar/ledge as for As You Like It. Right away reach around the corner and clip a sneaky bolt. Your belayer should stand down ~20' below you where Sauron starts.

Pull up onto the ledge and execute some extremely balancey/delicate moves to get situated. Pull the hardest single move past the 2nd bolt and continue left up the arete. The route is NOT strenuous for the grade, but you will need to pull out your full bag of lower gorge basalt tricks to keep moving up the arete to the top of the column.

If you have the basalt technique dialed, you will find this route soft for the grade. If you don't, it will feel hard/impossible, and you will be strongly tempted to traverse off the line and into a stem on Sauron. If you find yourself stemming, you are no longer climbing Yost in Space. The 11a is based on not doing one moment of stemming.

At the top of the column, climb 5.easy terrain (shared with As You Like It and Sauron) up to a single bolt to the right of the As You Like It roof crack. Swing out on nice flat face edges with marginal feet so the bolt is in your face/chest and crank straight up past the bolt and over the lip. Use the new ring anchor about 4 feet to your left for the least rope drag/wear on your rope.


Between As You LIke It and Sauron.


I think I put in 8 bolts? Could be 9. 2 bolt anchor with rings shared with As You Like It and Sauron.

Comments on Yost In Space Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 15, 2015

This route has some interesting history.

It was first toproped by Brett Yost and Ted Stahl in the 90s. Jeff Frizzel gave Alan Watts a list of lower gorge routes to be included in the second edition of the guidebook, and it included this route as a TR, with Frizzel naming it.

It sat neglected and undone for many years, in large part because it was a TR, but the anchor situation was horrible for toproping it, with heinous rope drag over a very rough/sharp edge that was very harsh on ropes. Furthermore, over the years I have seen a number of people getting their ropes fully and completely stuck in the finishing crack of As You Like It (which used to be the same top-out as Yost in Space).

Kent Benesch and I added a new anchor for As You Like It and Sauron in January 2015, significantly improving the TR situation, and so we TRed Yost In Space, and found it worthy and fun, and a separate line by gorge standards.

In February 2015 after taking a survey of gorge regulars as to whether I should leave it a TR or bolt it, the near unanimous decision was to make it leadable, so I bolted the line and led it, with a new face finish next to the crack finish of As You Like It/Sauron.

I wanted to rename the route "A Yost By Any Other Name" to give it a Shakespearean reference in its name (keeping it consistent with the remainder of the routes on Shakespeare wall), but I decided to honor the wishes of Brett and several longtime Gorge climbers and leave it with the name that Jeff Frizzel gave it.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!