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Yosemite Falls Area

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Five Open Books Area 
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Yosemite Falls Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.7521, -119.5969 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 91,456
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006
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On the Trail to Sunnyside Bench 1975.

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Description 

Yosemite Falls is the seventh highest water fall in the world. The Upper Falls drops 1,430 feet. An intermediate chain of cascades drops another 675 feet. The Lower Falls drops another 320 feet.
On the Upper Falls Wall is the famous Lost Arrow Spire.
Several grade VI routes also exist here.
The Lower Falls Amphitheatre offers quality climbing.
Sunnyside Bench and the Five Open Books are also quite popular.

Getting There 

Take the Lower Yosemite Falls Trail to access The lower areas.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

73 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',27],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',9],['5.8',10],['5.9',10],['5.10',25],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Yosemite Falls Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Yosemite Falls Area:
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Sunnyside Bench
Bay Tree Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Swan Slab
Munginella   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Five Open Books Area : Five Open Books
Swan Slab Gully   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 310'   Swan Slab
Penelope's Problem   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Swan Slab
Lost Arrow Tip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 250'   Lost Arrow Spire
The Caverns   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Five Open Books Area : Five Open Books
Super Hands   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Falls Amphitheatre
Selaginella   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 560'   Five Open Books Area : Second Tier
Lost Arrow Spire Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Trad, Aid, 16 pitches, 1400'   Lost Arrow Spire
Grant's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Swan Slab
Lena's Lieback   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   Swan Slab
Jamcrack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Sunnyside Bench
Commitment   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   Five Open Books Area : Five Open Books
The Surprise   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Five Open Books Area : Five Open Books
Lost Arrow Chimney   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   Lost Arrow Spire
Bummer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Sunnyside Bench
Werner's Ant Trees   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Five Open Books Area : Five Open Books
Lazy Bum   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   Sunnyside Bench
Dagger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Lower Falls Amphitheatre
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Yosemite Falls Area

Featured Route For Yosemite Falls Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the obvious corner system in the...

Dagger 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lower Falls Amphitheatre
Dagger is the striking line to the left of Super hands. Climb past two bolts to enter the corner system/ chimney. Thin hands and stemming with an occasional chimney move will get you to a two bolted anchor. The climbing felt very sustained at 5.10+ the entire way. You can rappel with a single sixty meter rope but you’ll have to down climb for about five feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Yosemite Falls Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt Smith on the first ascent of "Powerslave...
Kurt Smith on the first ascent of "Powerslave...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yosemite falls
Yosemite falls
Rock Climbing Photo: Yosemite Falls Area
Yosemite Falls Area
Rock Climbing Photo: On this cold winter morning, the first rays of sun...
On this cold winter morning, the first rays of sun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just playing around before heading up to the lower...
Just playing around before heading up to the lower...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Falls-Posterized. Photo by Blitzo.
Lower Falls-Posterized. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper Yosemite Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Upper Yosemite Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Indica Point and Yosemite Falls. Photo by Blitzo.
Indica Point and Yosemite Falls. Photo by Blitzo.

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