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Yosemite Arete 

Yosemite Arete 

Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,103
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Beautiful shot of a beautiful climb on a beautiful...

Description 

There is never chalk on this one. Maybe because it's quite tall. Fortunately, the crux is down low. Start on the left side of the arete and slap up on technical ground with a few reachy moves and small feet. Scary moves at a crack/corner lead to a horizontal crack already high off the deck. Then make a great traverse left in the do-not-fall zone to the path of least resistance to the top (summit). Downclimb cracks and chimneys on a different side.

Location 

The big boulder close by Kalbro

Protection 

Pad - downclimbing ability


Photos of Yosemite Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: lily crimping on the yosemite arete
lily crimping on the yosemite arete
Rock Climbing Photo: Attaching a chalk ball to a stick so we could brus...
Attaching a chalk ball to a stick so we could brus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben figuring out the tricky lower stuff
Ben figuring out the tricky lower stuff
Rock Climbing Photo: rob on the arete, lily and josh look on...
rob on the arete, lily and josh look on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Guarino on 'Yosemite Arete' v4
Justin Guarino on 'Yosemite Arete' v4

Comments on Yosemite Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Bangor, ME
Apr 2, 2008
rating: V5 6C

I had to climb this one with a brush in my mouth just to clean off the sloper before the crux move. The move can be friction dependent.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 22, 2009
rating: V4 6B

I may be thinking of a different problem, but I didn't thihnk that this problem was hard, just tall and scary. It's on the backside of the Yo boulder like you're heading towards Kalbro. It's the really tall arete that follows a crack system up to the big horizontal breaK?
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 22, 2009

i believe your right nhclimber... and i would agree that it doesnt look too hard but i would much rather not risk that fall haha
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 23, 2009
rating: V4 6B

I got sandbagged into climbing it and had no interest in trying the fall.
By AWinters
Administrator
From: NH
Sep 26, 2010
rating: V4 6B

great climbing but f*ck that sloper, you don't need it. Also, if you get thru the crux there's really no chance of falling up high
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 28, 2013
rating: V4+ 6B+

Agree with Adam. You don't need the sloper, though it might be useful for some people. I felt the crux was the move to reach the flake/corner. Whether this feels like v4 or v5 is likely dependent upon reach, as several moves and the crux are probably a little bit easier for taller folks.

Absolutely outstanding rock quality and aesthetics. Wish there were more climbs like this at Pway!
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
May 3, 2015

Not that scary actually, always thought it would be, if you can get past the sloper there's no chance of falling. Awesome climb!
By Graham O.
Sep 4, 2016
rating: V5 6C

I have two things to say about this climb. The first is that it is ridiculously hard for "v4", especially for those on the shorter side. I used beta including the sloper and some hideous crimps to gain the sidepull flake. The second is that this an amazing climb! It astonishes me that more people don't try this! Perfectly sculpted compression, sustained feel, definitive crux, fun movement, perfect rock, and a considerable thrill factor make this a classic! One of the best lines I've done at Pway and certainly in the top 10 under v5's in the park. Phenomenal climb, really a must-do, but climb well above v4 before doing so.

I have tons of photos of this that I will post soon.