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Yorkshire Gripper T 
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Yorkshire Gripper 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Peter Croft & Robin Barley, 1981
Page Views: 4,947
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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BETA PHOTO: Yorkshire Gripper Topo

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


Yorkshire Gripper climbs the beautiful cracks up the center of a blunt prow left of Popeye and the Raven. Expect fairly solid finger jamming to a well-defined crux where the crack peters out.

Beta alert: I received the excellent advise to dispense with pro through the crux section. Simply load up the crack before the crux and punch through the crux moves without thinking of pro. After the crux, you should get a pretty good stance from which to place gear. The crux is pretty short and the gear before it is very solid.


SR with extra small TCUs

Photos of Yorkshire Gripper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the first crux of the Yorkshire Gripper
the first crux of the Yorkshire Gripper
Rock Climbing Photo: The guidebook refers to this part as the "sti...
The guidebook refers to this part as the "sti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxy top-out. Photo by: Flint
Cruxy top-out. Photo by: Flint
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Yorkshire Gripper, just before the crux. ...
Climbing Yorkshire Gripper, just before the crux. ...

Comments on Yorkshire Gripper Add Comment
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By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2008

I second backing up your last piece of gear in the crack. I took a big fall on this one and landed about a foot above the ledge on the route. Yikes!!!
By Lizzy Trower
From: Stanford, CA
Aug 7, 2009

I actually thought the crux was the very last bit, getting up to the top ledge. Maybe it was just more mental, but I thought it was harder and more committing than the "crux" in the middle of the route.
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Aug 26, 2010

I agree with Lizzy. The direct start over the overhang was pretty easy. The mid-crux between the two cracks while a crux, IMHO it was insignificant compared to the end.

For a rack several BD 0.5 (purples) fit beautifully after the overhang in the direct start, in the lower crack and in the upper crack. I used the suggestion about small TCU's but only placed on and it wasn't really necessary. for me 0.3 (Blue) BD camalot to 0.5 (purple) BD camalot and a yellow one for the direct start
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2011

Edit to the route description/location. This climb is actually a ways left of Crime of the Century (16 routes left of it in the 2001 McLane book). More accurate to describe this route as left of Quarryman. I think the new L->R sorting on this site gets it right.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 15, 2011

Thanks Clayton. Yes, saying it's left of Crime was a bit of an understatement. I updated it a bit. Fortunately the route sorting feature helps with this sort of thing now.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought that the sritching-cracks crux was the hardest by far, but still only 11- with long arms. The span was not difficult for me. A shorter climber might find it much harder. Up top was not so bad technically, but could be pretty mental on lead depending on where your gear is placed
Sep 19, 2013

The redpoint on this one took me a few tries. I usually start to get tired of climbs that I have to work on multiple attempts, but this climb is flowy and interesting and I'll continue repeating it. One of my favourites in the bluffs if not Squamish.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 12, 2015

FA: Peter Croft, Robin Barley, 1981
By Raddam6
From: Salt Lake
Aug 16, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The middle crux is way harder than the top. The top would be very hard if you rush and get the sequence wrong though. Great pitch. I am 5'9 or 175 cm and this felt as hard for me as crime of the century. Onsighted both, suck it.
By rohanbk
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Offset nuts and a couple of offset cams are useful on this pitch. So amazing! Loved the climbing!

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