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Achean Pronouncement
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Dangling Fury S 
Dark Obsession T 
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 
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Yoni T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown, probably solo
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    Fountain Crack and although cleaner and more solid, it is only about 1/2 the length, and thus, not as good. It's also wider for nearly all of its length. Rossiter's book suggests to "jam" it, but other than a chicken wing, arm bar, or heel-toe, one is unlikely to jam this thing at all. The face holds on the right and left provide ample opportunity to avoid practicing O.W. technique at all. I wondered while climbing this if the conspicuous pocket on the left wall was in part a namesake of the route.
    Such a short climb in a canyon full of giants is hard-pressed to get a rating better than "good" no matter its quality. Nevertheless, this pitch has some good rock and good moves.


    This route is the wide, low-angle crack between the Lingum's right side and the main wall of the Achean Pronouncement. Approach as for the climb "Electric Fountain Crack"-- a pain in the butt to get to, mostly walking around on loose ground and pine needles on ledges.


    A #5 Camalot will go in about 1/5 way up. A #6 might go lower or higher. A #4 Camalot protects the second at the very top-- a directional prior to a traverse to the rap anchors.

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