REI Community
search
Mill Creek Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cross Cut T 
Features on a Landscape S 
Fractals S 
Fractals Variation S 
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 
MargaSukha T 
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 
Power Shot S 
Power Stripper, The T,S 
Ram T 
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 
Sita T,S 
Yogi's Choice T,S 

Yogi's Choice 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Through October
Page Views: 417
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
At the last hanger.

Description 

Begin in the corner of the white alcove. Most of this route is protected with cams. A bolt was placed low where the flakes are very wide. The headwall guarding the anchors is bolted. This excellent route starts out easy and just gets more and more difficult as one approaches the anchor. The lower section is just terrific climbing on a well featured system of flakes, cracks, and slots. The bolt at 60 feet protects the first really hard layback. You will need one or two more cams just above this move which is solid at 5.11+. The headwall above dodges the bird dung on the right, stays well left of this, but has at least four 5.11+ moves in a row, at least the way I did it. You may be able to cut left to the arete early and skim off a wee bit of difficulty. The lower section is super fun and never harder than 5.9 until you reach the bolt at 60 feet.

Location 

This is the right hand route in the MCD alcove, it starts below the roof system.

Protection 

Full rack of cams, half a dozen quickdraws, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


Photos of Yogi's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the last clip.
Just below the last clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the last hanger, two crux moves below and two t...
At the last hanger, two crux moves below and two t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yogi's Choice is route (B) on the right. Route (A)...
Yogi's Choice is route (B) on the right. Route (A)...

Comments on Yogi's Choice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
4 days ago
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Be prepared to climb hard and sustained 5-11d and 12 a,b moves to get to the anchors on this climb. We found a "Leaver Carabiner" on the lower part of the white face, section, before the first really hard crux. A right leaning flared crack layback. You have to get two pieces in the flaring crack on the way to the next hanger, these are 5-12 moves. I had to throw a dyno move to insert the cam high enough. Richard must have been in tip top shape when he red pointed this climb. It's much more difficult than "Sweet Petite" 5-11d or Full power, on the Randle Wall, which is also 5-11d. So be prepared for a real test including trad placements, for the way this climb is graded.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About