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Yogi's Choice 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: through October
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 25, 2011

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At the last hanger.


Begin in the corner of the white alcove. Most of this route is protected with cams. A bolt was placed low where the flakes are very wide. The headwall guarding the anchors is bolted. This excellent route starts out easy and just gets more and more difficult as one approaches the anchor. The lower section is just terrific climbing on a well featured system of flakes, cracks, and slots. The bolt at 60 feet protects the first really hard layback. You will need one or two more cams just above this move which is solid at 5.11+. The headwall above dodges the bird dung on the right, stays well left of this, but has at least four 5.11+ moves in a row, at least the way I did it. You may be able to cut left to the arete early and skim off a wee bit of difficulty. The lower section is super fun and never harder than 5.9 until you reach the bolt at 60 feet.


This is the right hand route in the MCD alcove, it starts below the roof system.


Full rack of cams, half a dozen quickdraws, and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Yogi's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the last clip.
Just below the last clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the last hanger, two crux moves below and two t...
At the last hanger, two crux moves below and two t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yogi's Choice is route (B) on the right. Route (A)...
Yogi's Choice is route (B) on the right. Route (A)...

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By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Be prepared to climb hard and sustained 5.11d and 12a/b moves to get to the anchors on this climb. We found a "leaver carabiner" on the lower part of the white face, section, before the first really hard crux. A right-leaning, flared crack layback. You have to get two pieces in the flaring crack on the way to the next hanger, these are 5.12 moves. I had to throw a dyno move to insert the cam high enough. Richard must have been in tip top shape when he redpointed this climb. It's much more difficult than "Sweet Petite" 5-11d or Full Power, on the Randle Wall, which is also 5.11d. So be prepared for a real test including trad placements for the way this climb is graded.

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