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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, Julia "The Yogini" Geisler and Will Maxwell, 29 April 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: James Garrett on May 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Yogini marked on the left side of the Madness Butt...


Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer! May be climbed in one long pitch, but beware of rope drag.

Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.

Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.

Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.


Walk around the corner left side of Madness Buttress.


QDs. Bolts supplemented by gear on the SE corner of the Madness Buttress. A few micro to small cams to #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt belay stations at each anchor. Drilled on the lead. Well protected.

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By grk10vq
Mar 21, 2008

There is no anchor directly on top. You can protect the final moves with some small gear, then traverse, and end on TOTM/CS anchors.
By James Garrett
Mar 21, 2008

TOTM anchors at the top serve as the final belay for this climb seemingly OK, don't they? There are probably only one set of anchors on top. Did you think the grades were correct?
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Classic route, my favorite so far @ Ibex. The crux on P1 is awkward and committing, the kind of bouldery stuff you don't expect to encounter on a route. There's a bolt right there so you won't go anywhere if you blow the delicate sequence.
P2 is one of the best face climbing pitches I've done anywhere. I'm still amazed it links a whole bunch of features together through the steep blank headwall. Tiny crimps, deep 2 finger pockets, weird sidepulls, smears, a bunch of press moves, a finger crack... It's all there with great exposure to boot.

I placed mostly small cams and nuts, can't remember the largest piece. Loved the last bolt too...
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Oct 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. I would call the 1st pitch 5.10c.

I should have payed more attention to the comments about the top anchor, as we couldn't find one and ended up walking off to the South and down the next gully, rapping once from a poorly fixed nut(downclimbing this step may be possible).
By Blake Summers
From: Park City, Utah
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the first pitch to be more like 10b/c. Fun climb!

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