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Yogi Unchained 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat and Russ
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Tim Fry on Feb 12, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Pitch 2, a delightful pitch. Juggy and fun. Photo...

Description 

4 pitches, topping out with a nice view into the Virgin Canyon and a humbling look at The Scariest Ride in the Park. The main attraction of this climb is sport climbing in a full on limestone chimney (P2).


P1: 5.8. Up blocky left facing dihedral.

P2: 5.9. The money pitch. Fun and pretty clean chimney, complete with entertaining chockstone. Guide calls it 5.9, but if you compare it to any of the Epinephrine chimneys in Red Rocks it would feel more like 5.7. Still, lots of fun to climb a sport bolted limestone chimney. Do what you can not to let your rope knock anything loose on your way up-- anything you send down is gonna funnel straight to your belayer.

P3. 5.10. Crimps and vertical pockets, passing an intermediate rap station about 30 feet in. Crux is a little bulge you have to negotiate around or through.

P4. 5.9. Take it to the top.


Notes:

P1 and P2 can (and probably should) be linked as the two together are only 35m.
We linked P3 and P4 with a 70m rope, but not without some drag, and it used most of the rope. Might be better to pitch these out.


Descent:
Rap the route. With a 70m, this can be done in 3 raps, ignoring the intermediate anchor and rapping from the top of P2 to ground. You probably want to saddlebag your ropes for the chimney rap so you don't get them wrapped around the chockstone or lost somewhere tough to reach.

With a 60, you'll need that intermediate, and you'll take it from the intermediate to the top of P1, then to ground, for 4 raps total. The plus side here is that it should keep your ropes out of the chimney.

Location 

Enter the pool complex and head towards the wall on the left of the complex (wonder wall). Follow a narrow but good trail up 5 minutes or less to the base of the climbs. All are marked with an aluminum plaque. Yogi Unchained is on the terrace above and to the left of Libertad.

Protection 

12 draws should do it if pitching it out.


Photos of Yogi Unchained Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No need to chimney, you can actually stem most of ...
No need to chimney, you can actually stem most of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Melissa making the final rap after climbing Yogi U...
Melissa making the final rap after climbing Yogi U...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of the chimney pitch
At the top of the chimney pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Did it again this year, I start on the outside, bu...
Did it again this year, I start on the outside, bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Going deep into the chimney on Yogi Unchained.  It...
Going deep into the chimney on Yogi Unchained. It...

Comments on Yogi Unchained Add Comment
Show which comments
By MAKB
Administrator
From: Potrero Chico, MEX
Oct 29, 2015

We did some significant cleaning of plants and blocks today and the route is looking much better. Didn't see any "death blocks" on the first pitch so I'm assuming it has been trundled.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Feb 16, 2016

Very fun, no death blocks on route today. Enjoyed this climb very much. Chimney is very straight forward and well bolted. Our 70M rope made it from the top of the 3rd pitch to the top of the 2nd with 12 feet to spare. We did not use the intermediate anchor. We also were able to rap off from the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground with our 70M rope. Worth doing.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 4, 2016

The description of this climb by Tim Fry far surpasses the actual route itself.

P1 (P1/P2 combo) First pitch is ho-hum with the bonus of dirty holds and some loose rock- takes 7 draws to the anchor. P2 "the money pitch" is the bolted forced chimney. It appears from the bolted line that the FA party really wanted you to go inside the squeeze. Heck, that's why we went too! Unfortunately, the features are really further to the outside. Not to worry, the bolts are still easy enough to clip and you still get to use some classic chimney moves but moving to the inside to follow straight up the line is just silly. My partner while cleaning was stating she came to do a chimney, "I'm doing the chimney" yet still found herself using the holds further to the outside. 8 bolts if you include clipping one from p1 anchor (linking) and chained chalkstone along the way.

Speaking of chain.... the chain wrapped around the chalkstone is significant beefier & newer than the actual anchor. Which, the anchor I'll add, is also in an odd position. Good rock, sufficient stance and better pull just a few feet left.

P3 (or 2) is a bit of a test. Are you experienced enough to tell the difference between rock shift, loose rock and full-on choss? Do you consider yourself a loose rock specialist? If so, consider proceeding the 11 bolts of 5.8 climbing and you'll hopefully arrive at the station.

P4 (or 3) - Finally, something that looks interesting. Climbing is fairly solid and somewhat tricky move between the 3rd & 4th bolt, total of 11 or 12 as I recall before hitting a very dirty ledge with 4' long rusted chain extending to the lip. Be mindful of the chain and you come aboard the ledge to not have it scrape along the dirt and gravel dislodging such unpleasantries to your belayer below.

Sip in the view as I suspect you'll never come up this climb again, then get your rope management skills in check and prepare rap. The plumb line below has ample vegetation....we opted to saddle our rope. As the second descends, watch your tails and where your feet are. Said vegetation is filled with rocks, choss and other hazards that you would not want to bomb on to your trusty partner. Cross your fingers and turn your heads.... with good luck your rope will come down.

Second rap is fairly straight forward - 70m reaching top of p2. From there more saddling of the ropes and down the chimney you go. Grab your bags, keep your helmet on and clear the base as the final pull will reward you with gravel, rocks and dirt from the chimney.

This is a no-star route, I'm bombing it actually to bring the MP star count down to where it should be. Maybe, sorta okay if your desperate and you really really really want to do the chimney but I feel that's muy generoso.

Still game? P1/2 combo can be done with 15 draws and whatever your anchor preference is. Pitch out the final two with the same count..... save any extra weight for a gun to shoot yourself for doing this pile.

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