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Yoav Crack 1 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Yoav Altman (TR), Erik Roed (lead)
Page Views: 2,667
Submitted By: AJ on Dec 16, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Rattly fingers at the crux.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a classic Woodson splitter, one of the best 5.10 cracks on "The Hill."

It's mostly sweet finger locks, with the crux near the top, as the crack widens slightly and steepens to just past vertical.

Many thanks to Erik and Yoav for sharing beta on this area.

Protection 

Finger and fat-finger sized TCUs.

.75 camalot or similar for an anchor up top.


Photos of Yoav Crack 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Glad I have fat fingers! Photo by Eden Anbar
Glad I have fat fingers! Photo by Eden Anbar
Rock Climbing Photo: Walk past the Ogre for 5-10 minutes, when you see ...
BETA PHOTO: Walk past the Ogre for 5-10 minutes, when you see ...
Rock Climbing Photo: bulges at the top a bit
bulges at the top a bit
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the view as you approach the boulder.
BETA PHOTO: Here is the view as you approach the boulder.

Comments on Yoav Crack 1 Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 24, 2016
By Burcheydawwwwwwg
Dec 22, 2014

AJ, thanks for posting up. Hope to investigate this weekend.
By SeanG81
Jan 2, 2015

Thanks for posting these!

Yoav1 has 1 shiny new bolt which you can back up with med nut or .5"-.75" for anchor.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jan 8, 2015

AJ,

Thanks for posting this. It would be nearly impossible to find without some direction.

This is a very nice route with considerable length for Woodson. Although I found it a bit coarse and grainy in spots. The occasional footholds on the face were suspect. However, it should clean up with more traffic. Roughly 15 minutes from the Potato Chip.
By AJ
Jan 17, 2015

Did a bolt really sprout on top of this gem within a month of my post?!

What a bummer. I'll definitely think twice before posting more obscurities.

Whoever drilled it: bogus.
By Burcheydawwwwwwg
Jan 17, 2015

man...
By Crotch Robbins
Jan 18, 2015

When you consider the amount of time spent approaching this climb vs. the amount of time spent climbing, rigging a gear anchor doesn't add significant time to the endeavor.

I appreciate the thought behind the bolt which helps keep the rope out of the crack. With some thoughtful rigging this can also be accomplished using standard gear and the features provided by nature. The bolt is superfluous.

Woodson, among other places, has served me as a schoolroom for both climbing and rigging skills which have carried me up hallowed rocks around the globe. I hope that future generations of San Diegans are left places to learn these hard and soft skills.

If you are looking to bang out a bunch of pitches on Woodson, you aren't carrying a rope. And if you are carrying a rope, a handful of cams won't break your back.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 19, 2015

Is the bolt for the lead or for a TR setup?
By Burcheydawwwwwwg
Jan 19, 2015

For TR setup. To be fair, it does a great job of keeping the rope out of the crack (still there yesterday).

That being said, the crack provides a totally BOMBER anchor setup. Less holes in the rock, the better.
By Chris Diercks
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 20, 2015

AJ. Many thanks for posting up this climb up on MP. The new bolt, however, is not so cool and unnecessary. And I'm old and appreciate safety.
By erikr
Jan 12, 2016




By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 24, 2016

Great climb, although a bit out of the way. Bolt is still there as of today, not sure why- it looks weird. Thanks for sharing!

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