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YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 

YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Oct 11, 2003

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This crack forms a big Y in the southside cracks area of the Dome. The left crack is is a thin hand crack/layback. The right crack is wider and has some good jams.

The first section starts out in a short, wide-ish crack leading up to a ledge just below a triangle shaped roof. It is likely that you could continue through this ledge in one pitch, but I stopped here for a closer belay. From here, climb up a bushy dihedral for about 20 foot, then take your choice of directions for the roof. Going right, I found some hand jams and good pro. Top out through some ledges and a short wide section in the corner. The crux section is fun with some good exposure. The rest of the climb has some fun moves, but it has its share of bushes and loose rock.

There is a good decent to the climbers right from the top. Scramble down the gully for about 40 feet towards some big chockstones at the top of a chimney. There is a slung chockstone here with rap rings. Do a one rope rappel to the base of the climbs.


Standard rack, maybe a couple extra in the medium-hand size. A #4 Camalot protects the crux well, and there is a good yellow Alien placement after the roof.

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By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Oct 1, 2016

Haas et al. guidebook calls this Tom's Crack Attack. We did the left variation today. The crux section was fun, but the bushes and low-angle sections hardly make it worth it, so one star.

I tried to do the right variation first, but the feet were terrible, and, without taped hands, I gave up after a bit. I'd say that the right variation is harder than 5.10a.

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