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Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Page Views: 4,163
Submitted By: JSlack on Nov 16, 2009

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Topping it out, the direct way. Photo courtesy: Hj...


Start on obvious edges at head height then move up and left to a spicy top-out.


Crash Pads

Photos of Yeti Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to figure out the top
Trying to figure out the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin hitting the jugs and cutting
Kevin hitting the jugs and cutting
Rock Climbing Photo: Dana on the starting crimps.
Dana on the starting crimps.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Sullens cranking through the Yeti
Nick Sullens cranking through the Yeti
Rock Climbing Photo: Desperate Top out!
Desperate Top out!
Rock Climbing Photo: Mary Patterson throwing for the jug. Photo courtes...
Mary Patterson throwing for the jug. Photo courtes...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 2, 2017
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Nov 22, 2010

Probably the coolest boulder I've ever done. Classic moves on good holds and an adrenaline kick at the top every time
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Nov 10, 2011

Great problem with an on par spicy topout.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Nov 14, 2011

Do yourself a favor and top it out straight. The "left" topout still makes you squirm, but the direct line is sooo good.
By Ian Bloom
Dec 4, 2011

The top moves are definitely scary, and the foot beta might be different depending on how tall you are... Paul W., I don't know you'll ever see this, but thanks for your beta and spot. Right after you left, I sent the problem because of your help.
By Tom Shank
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 15, 2012

Finally finished this today, great problem for me. What's the consensus on the top outs? Going left is acceptable, just takes less cajones than going straight up?
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 15, 2012

Both are acceptable, in my opinion. I know climbers who are terrified to go left, but comfortable with the straight up version, and vice versa. Nice work!
By Bob Banks
Oct 16, 2012

Topping out left is not only acceptable but the original, and I still think the best, line. I always thought it flows better since you're heading up and left the whole time anyways. The direct top-out never felt as 'elegant' to me. I haven't been up there in a while but the tree out left is less intrusive now making the left exit a bit less scary than it used to be. I remember watching Micah get ejected from the top and falling sideways through the tree many years ago. He was pretty scratched up.

Would be a five star problem anywhere in the world no matter how you top it out.
By Tim King
Dec 2, 2012

Yeah this is one of my favorite at the Yard (or anywhere I've been for that matter)! Originally I did the left top out, but went back for the direct. I enjoy and do both, whatever feels natural at the moment, although I think the left is actually a bit scarier as if you come off there you're more sideways (and have potential to fall into the bush). Just don't come off and you're fine!
By Alan Zhan
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 15, 2014
rating: V4+ 6B+

In my opinion the proudest line in Santa Barbara (at least that I have done). Powerful lower moves up to a committing topout. Hardest part for me was definitely the bottom sequence up to deadpointing the jug.
By Carl0s
Aug 19, 2014

By Austin Cooner
Apr 2, 2017

one of those climbers who got terrified trying to go left, but cruised it smoothly when topping out directly. commit and it's not so bad! great problem

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